How to Raise a Fallen Motorcycle
If possible, find someone to help you lift the bike. If you have to lift it by yourself, there are procedures to help prevent you from injuring your back.
When picking up your bike, use leverage to avoid straining your back. If the bike has case guards (metal tubes mounted around the engine to protect the engine cases in a crash), grab the handlebars and roll the bike toward you on the case guards, using the bike’s momentum to get it upright. Bend your knees and use your legs, not your back, to lift the machine upright.
If the bike doesn’t have case guards, grasp the lower side of the handlebar (the side under the bike), turn the front wheel toward you, grasp some solid part of the frame, and work your knee under the seat. Then, use your legs to lift the bike. You might want to extend your side stand, in case you get the bike upright and it falls over in the opposite direction.
Don’t smoke anywhere near the fallen bike, since gas will most likely have dripped out. There may also be battery acid that has dripped out. This can burn holes in your riding gear and even your skin, as well as corrode metal parts on your bike. You’ll want to check the level of the fluid in your battery after a fall.
Once you’ve gotten the bike upright, check for other damage, too. Brake, clutch, and shift levers can get bent or broken in a fall. Riding a bike with a broken clutch or brake lever is difficult and dangerous. You may be in a situation where you have to ride away from your crash site with a broken or bent lever, but replace it as soon as possible.
Also check your wheels and tires after a crash. Make certain that a fender or chain guard isn’t rubbing on your tire. Make certain that your handlebars are firmly attached to your fork. If your handlebars break loose, you’re going to crash again. In the majority of all emergency situations, the only thing that will be hurt is your pride. Swallow it and count your blessings.
Once you have calmed down, reconstruct the events leading up to your crash. Chances are, in retrospect, you will remember ways you could have avoided the accident entirely. Remember these things the next time you ride, and you will greatly decrease your odds of ever crashing again.
5 Things You Must Bring On A Motorcycle Trip !
I enjoy all aspects of riding, from commuting to work to trail riding, but I enjoy touring on a bike most of all. I find nothing more thrilling than cresting a hill and seeing a new expanse of world open up before me. Whether I’m exploring the Sand Hill region of Nebraska, the High Desert in Southern California, the lush Ozark Mountains of Arkansas, or the wheat fields of Minnesota, I never get bored when I’m traveling on a bike.
No matter what I tell you, you will probably overestimate the amount of clothing and gear you’ll need when you take your first motorcycle trip. But here are my 5 suggestions for all you need for a safe, comfortable ride.
The Clothes Make the Motorcyclist
On my first extended trip, which I took about 15 years ago, I brought a couple of different jackets (for riding in a variety of weather conditions), along with five or six complete changes of clothing, including some dressy clothes in case I wanted to go out to eat or on a date.
Now I bring a couple of pairs of jeans, a couple of turtlenecks, a couple of sweat shirts, and a couple of T-shirts. I may bring three T-shirts if the weather is hot, or if I plan to be gone a week or more. And I bring pretty much every pair of underwear and socks I own. If I go out for a nice dinner, I wear my cleanest pair of jeans and the turtleneck with the fewest holes in it.
When packing for a motorcycle trip, pack light. A lighter load will tax your motorcycle less and not have such a pronounced effect on your bike’s handling. Leave a little extra space for any souvenirs you might pick up.
Your best bet is to travel light on a bike. Only bring clothing you’ll wear. And you’ll always seem to wear less than you bring. As you become a more experienced motorcycle traveler, you’ll find that you bring less clothing on each successive trip.
Tools You’ll Use
Although I pack less clothes for each successive trip, I find that my list of must-bring gear grows each year. Every time I’ve needed an item I didn’t have, I’ve included that item on following trips.
I always bring a small selection of extra tools, even when I’m on a new bike. The toolkits that come with most bikes will do in a pinch, but I always like to have an extra set of combination spanner wrenches, a couple of pliers (needle-nose pliers and channel-lock pliers), a ratchet, and a small selection of sockets. I also include a cigarette lighter, a small selection of nuts and bolts (including some for connecting my battery cables to my battery), some electrical connectors, a roll of wire, and a couple of rolls of tape (friction and duct tape).
Safety First: First Aid
I also carry a first-aid kit with me. I make certain that kit includes :
- A selection of bandages, including gauze bandages
- Adhesive tape
- An antibiotic of some sort
- Something for bee stings
This is a list of the absolute minimum amount of items a first-aid kit should include. If you can pack a more complete kit, you should do so, even if you need to leave something else behind to make room for it.
For the Scenic Routes : Photographic Equipment
I’m a photographer and always bring my camera equipment when I travel, which presents some challenges on a bike. The greatest of these challenges is weather protection. If you have watertight hard luggage, this is not as much of an issue, but riders with soft luggage will have to come up with a way to keep the rain off their camera equipment. Before a trip on which I’ll be using soft luggage, I buy a box of the most durable garbage bags I can get (the kind for bagging leaves seems to be the toughest), then double-wrap my mirrorless cameras in these bags.
When your camera is packed away in your luggage, it can take too long to reach it, so I have a fanny-pack–type camera bag. If you want to keep your camera ready to use when you ride, I highly recommend this type of bag. Another option is to use small point-and-shoot cameras when you travel. You can keep these in your vest pockets or fairing pockets, where they’ll stay dry and be ready when you need them.
If you pack your camera in your luggage, whether you have soft or hard luggage, be careful not to place it in a location where it will bounce around. Just the vibration from your bike can pound expensive cameras to pieces ; if they bounce around in your trunk or against your shock absorbers while in your saddlebags, you could end up with very expensive paperweights instead of cameras.
Always buy a large box of heavy duty garbage bags before going on a motorcycle trip. You’ll be amazed at the uses you’ll find for them. I place my clothes in them, then put the garbage bag in my saddlebags. Not only does this protect my clothes from getting wet, but it makes it easier to pack and unpack my saddlebags. I also wrap my sleeping bag in garbage bags. If you’ve ever had to spend a night in a wet sleeping bag, you’ll see the value of this practice.
Carrying your camera in a fanny pack, or carrying a point-and-shoot camera in your vest pocket, can eliminate much of this problem. If you transport your camera in your luggage, pack soft items, such as towels, clothing, or pillows, around it to absorb shocks and vibrations.
Protective Gear
I always wear a full-face helmet with a visor when traveling. Not only does a full-face helmet provide superior protection in an accident, it provides superior protection from the elements and superior comfort.
The most versatile piece of protective gear you can own is a waterproof riding suit like Alpinestars Durban Gore-Tex Jacket (mentioned in : How to Choose Your Best Extreme Riding Gear !). These suits eliminate the need for rain gear, freeing up a lot of luggage space, and they provide unmatched versatility. With all liners in place, such suits provide excellent cold-weather protection, yet with the liners removed and with all vents opened, they are the best hot-weather gear you can buy. This is especially important when traveling in high mountains, where temperatures can vary by 60 or 70 degrees in just a few miles.
How to Shift Gears Smoothly ?
Perform Downshifting
Downshifting smoothly, especially while braking hard, requires skill and dexterity. To avoid upsetting the bike, the engine rpm in the new gear must be matched to the road speed before the clutch is engaged, otherwise the rear tire will "chatter" momentarily and upset the bike as the engine rpm is forced to match road speed.
To do this, the rider must "blip" the throttle to raise the engine rpm during downshifts... but he must do this while simultaneously pulling on the front brake to slow down. While this riding skill is obviously necessary on the racetrack, it can also pay big dividends in street-riding situations where riding smoothly is a must; for instance, any situation where you are braking on a slippery surface.
The idea of blipping the throttle during downshifts can be intimidating initially, but with a little practice, the technique will soon become second nature.
First, make sure that your levers are adjusted as described in This Article. Check that your throttle is adjusted for minimal play in the cable. With the engine running in neutral, try blipping the throttle slightly while pulling firmly on the brake lever. Note that it doesn't take much throttle movement to get the revs up with no load on the engine. Then practice simultaneously pulling and releasing the clutch quickly when you blip the throttle (remembering to continue pulling on the brake lever as if you were slowing for a turn). Some people only use two fingers on the brake lever, others all four. Don’t be afraid to experiment and find out what works for you.
Next practice this technique while riding in a safe area with no traffic hazards. As you brake and begin your downshift, simply use the same method as before, but add the act of downshifting. The action of blipping the throttle and the downshift should be simultaneous and quick. It doesn't take a whole lot of extra revs to match the engine to road speed, so all it will require is a slight throttle blip.
With practice, you'll know just how much is necessary at various speeds. Note that mostly the palm of your hand and thumb that perform the act of moving the throttle. Your upper body weight is centered on your palms under braking anyway, and your fingers are busy actuating the brake and holding the bar. All it takes is a slight wrist movement to blip the throttle. You'll find this will help avoid affecting your braking action or steering.
If you find that you still have problems with this technique, try adjusting your brake so that your fingers are less stretched out (without hindering your ability to pull the lever in for maximum braking, of course).
If you continue to have trouble, you will have to employ the "non-blip" method even some racers such as Eric Bostrom use. This simply means the clutch is released gradually after the downshift so that the engine rpm can rise progressively to match road speed without the rear wheel chattering. The downside is that the rider must allow for some extra engine braking as the clutch is engaged, limiting if there is little load left on the rear tire as a result of weight transfer. Also, it requires even more skill at manipulating and controlling the bike while simultaneously releasing the clutch lever slowly and gradually.
Perform Upshifting
Although it is the right way for beginners or novice riders, using the clutch for upshifts is totally unnecessary. In fact, there are many riding situations where it can be a nuisance and even a hindrance to quicker and smoother riding.
Beware!
It is possible that your bike may have some shift or transmission issues that prevent using this technique. If so, see what aftermarket accessories are available. A motorcycle’s gearbox differs from your typical automobile manual transmission in that it can actually change gears under a small load, and only needs a slight interruption in the flow of power to accomplish an upshift. Its constantmesh, sequential dog-engagement design means it can change gears much more readily than a typical automobile synchromesh transmission.
This is why "power shifters" are so popular with motorcycle racers; by using a device that cuts ignition momentarily while upshifting, the rider is able to keep the throttle pinned wide open, saving time and effort.
Basically, clutchless upshifting is simple: Instead of shutting off the throttle completely and pulling in the clutch while you shift, just let off the throttle some and perform the upshift in a quick, near-simultaneous movement; ignore the clutch. Don’t shut the throttle off completely, just let off enough to get the shift done. Upshifting without the clutch also gets you in the habit of performing the shift quickly and smoothly.
This minimises the effect of weight transfer from letting off the throttle so as not to upset the bike’s handling. Once you become accustomed to using this technique, you’ll be amazed at the time and energy saved (and you’ll probably reduce wear and tear on your clutch plates, too).
There are riding situations where the physical exertion saved from not having to constantly squeeze the clutch lever during upshifts can be a huge benefit. For example, accelerating through a series of turns your arms and hands are busy steering the bike, so it’s quicker and smoother to do without the clutch.
How to Choose Your Riding Gear : Jacket, Pants, Gloves & Boots !
- Over-the-ankle leather boots
- Leather, full-fingered gloves
- Long pants
- A riding jacket
This list defines the absolute minimal amount of clothing you can wear to ride safely, especially concerning the last two items (pants and jacket). You may have seen people riding in shorts, tennis shoes, and nothing else. My advice is to not become attached to these people, because should they survive even the most minor spill, they will not emerge from the experience as people you’d want to look at on a regular basis.
Denim actually provides a fair amount of abrasion resistance and should be considered the lowest acceptable standard for protective pants and jackets, but many riders prefer the safety (and style) of a purpose-designed riding suit. These suits, usually constructed of leather or special synthetic materials, like Kevlar and Cordura nylon, offer superior abrasion resistance and often have built-in armor to protect vital areas of a rider’s body.
Make certain that your riding gear is constructed of competition-weight leather (leather that is at least 1.3 millimeters thick) : Leave the fashionweight stuff to the supermodels and biker wannabes.
Looking Good in Leather
Competition-weight leather (leather that is at least 1.3 millimeters thick) provides the best crash protection of any material, period. That’s why it’s the material of choice for racing suits. I can guarantee you (from personal experience) that buying a new jacket is much less painful than road rash, which is what riders call the abrasions from a crash.
Not all that long ago, a motorcyclist had one choice when it came to protective gear : the traditional leather biker jacket, like Marlon Brando wore in The Wild One. This lack of choice had its advantages: Back then, you knew who rode a bike and who didn’t.
The variety of styles and colors now available for leather riding gear probably has a lot to do with the increasing popularity of leather in the fashion world. No longer are motorcyclists forced to choose between Marlon Brando’s biker jacket or nothing at all. Today’s jackets and complete riding suits are available in as many styles and colors as are motorcycles themselves. And traditional black leather riding gear is now available in shapes and styles to complement every body type.
Synthetic Riding Suits : Ties Optional
While leather is still the optimum material for crash protection, an increasing number of riders choose synthetic riding suits. The advantages of leather are most apparent at extremely high speeds (which is why racers choose leather), but at speeds under triple-digit velocities, synthetic suits provide all the protection you are likely to need.
These suits have certain advantages over leather. Most of them are machine washable, unlike leather, which must be sent to a cleaner. And many of them are waterproof or water-resistant, eliminating the need for special rain gear. Plus, these synthetic suits can easily be worn over regular clothing, a tremendous advantage for people who use their motorcycles to commute to work.
Most synthetic suits are constructed with removable liners, allowing the rider to use them over a broad range of weather conditions. In hot weather, riders can wear light clothing beneath their suits, and as the temperatures drop, riders can put in the liners and wear extra layers of clothing.
Gloves : How Much Blood Can You Lose Through the Palm of Your Hand ?
Many riders - even those mentioned earlier, who wear nothing but a pair of shorts and some sandals - wear a pair of gloves when they are riding, if for no other reason than for comfort.
Always wear a sturdy pair of leather gloves, preferably a pair with gauntlets that extend over your wrists. A good pair of gloves designed specifically for motorcycle use will have extra leather on the palms, knuckles, and fingers. This provides additional protection against abrasion in case of an accident.
Riders who like to consider themselves tough often wear fingerless gloves. While these will provide some palm protection in the event of a crash, they really offer very little hand protection. Plus, while you are riding, the wind stretches out the finger openings, and bugs can get blown in. Getting stung by a bee on the palm of your hand can make your ride home a painful and dangerous experience. Full-fingered leather gloves prevent this. In fact, bees are one major reason to wear protective gear. They are a major part of the riding experience; sooner or later, you will get stung. Wearing gloves is one of the most effective ways you can avoid bee stings. I especially like gloves with large gauntlets that go well past the sleeve opening on my jacket; this keeps the little buggers from flying up my jacket sleeve and stinging my arm.
Fancy Footwear
Even choosing footwear for riding requires you to think. You need to wear a pair of over-the-ankle leather boots to protect your ankles from being burned by the exhaust pipes and from stones and other debris. You also need to take other factors into account when selecting a pair of boots.
On a motorcycle, your feet are an important part of your motorcycle’s chassis : They are what hold up the motorcycle when you are at rest. In effect, when you aren’t moving, the soles of your shoes are like an extra set of tires. Because of this, you’ll want to wear a pair of boots with grippy soles. While fashionable cowboy boots provide adequate ankle protection, their leather soles are far too slippery for them to be safe riding shoes. If you wear cowboy boots, make certain they are work-style cowboy boots with grippy rubber soles. That holds true for any style of boot you choose.
I prefer a pull-on boot over a lace-up boot, and not just because they take less time to put on. I worry about laces coming loose and getting caught in moving parts. Motorcyclists seem to develop unnatural attachments to their boots, perhaps because they are such an integral part of riding. I have a couple of pairs of riding boots that I’ve elevated to the status of pets.
My favorite boots are a pair of Durango Men's Work boots I’ve had since few years ago. These are the big, up-to-the-knee black leather boots that scare people when you walk into the room wearing them. I’ve ridden through thousands of miles of rain and snow in them, I’ve even crashed in them, and they still have the original pair of soles.
Steering Through Sticky Situations : Riding in the Twisties !
But motorcycles can corner as quickly as you need them to if you ride them correctly.
Traction : A Sticky Matter
The reason four car tires grip the road better than two small tires is because when you have larger tires, and more of them, more rubber touches the road.
Motorcycle tires are designed to operate at a certain temperature; they need to heat up a bit before they provide proper traction. Professional racers keep their tires in warming machines prior to going out on the track, but even then, they wait until they have heated up their tires before they get on the throttle. You probably won’t require racing levels of adhesion from your tires, but applying too much throttle in a curve before your tires are warm is a quick way to crash.
A variety of factors contribute to your bike’s traction. The material your tire is made of plays a role. Softer, stickier rubber grips better than harder rubber. Tire temperature affects traction, too, since the colder the tire, the harder the rubber. A tire that has been heated up through use has more gripping power than a cold tire. The shape and depth of your tread contribute to traction. The surface of the road also plays a role. When cornering, the contact patch of your tire is critical to traction. The contact patch is the part of the tire that actually touches the road.
The relatively small amount of rubber in the contact patch is the main reason motorcycle tires can’t corner as well as cars. Plus, unlike cars, motorcycles lean when they turn. As your motorcycle leans, the contact patch of its tires decreases, meaning that you have less traction available in a turn.
To further complicate matters, when you accelerate, decelerate, or brake, you upset the chassis of your motorcycle, causing it to move around. This causes the amount of pressure on your tires to vary, which in turn causes the size of your contact patch to vary.
Gravity Is Your Friend
I’ve made taking a curve on a motorcycle sound like going on a ride at a carnival, and there are similarities, but on a bike, you’re in control. By practicing proper cornering techniques, you can actually make all this commotion work for you instead of against you.
Get your braking done before you turn. Apply the brakes when the motorcycle is upright, before you lean over to turn. If you brake when you’re leaning over, you’re much more likely to skid than you are if you brake when the motorcycle is upright. Remember, when you’re leaning over, you have less traction available.
Because of that lack of traction, you must use the throttle smoothly in a corner. Maintaining a steady engine speed keeps your bike settled in a curve, while jerky use of the throttle upsets your bike. The smoother you are with your throttle, the more control you have over your bike.
Smooth throttle control is one of the primary reasons for choosing a smaller, less powerful motorcycle for your first bike. The more power available when you twist the throttle, the harder it will be for you to develop smooth throttle control. Bikes that have abrupt throttle response, a characteristic of bikes with narrow power bands, are more difficult to control, while bikes with a broader power band deliver smoother, more controllable power.
Don’t accelerate or shift during a corner, since this will upset your chassis. Wait until you’ve finished the turn and your bike is once again upright to accelerate. As you develop your technique and become more proficient at taking curves, you will be able to apply power slightly earlier as you exit a corner. When you do this, you make the motorcycle’s dynamics work for you, because when you accelerate, you place more weight on the rear of the motorcycle, thus increasing your traction. As you become more familiar with your bike’s reactions to throttle input, you can use that increased traction as you exit a corner.
Dangerous Debris
You always need to scan the surface of the road for debris, like leaves, sand, fluids, and gravel buildup, but the situation in which these conditions will most often lead to a crash is when you encounter them in a curve. These materials tend to accumulate on the outside edge of a curve, so pay close attention to that part of the road when scanning a corner.
Approach areas where shade covers the road with extra caution, especially in the morning, when shaded areas can be slippery from dew or frost. You may not be able to see debris like sand or oil in a shaded area. When you are unsure of the condition of the road, slow down.
If there is debris on a curve, slow down to give yourself time to maneuver around the debris. If you are unable to avoid the debris, don’t panic and hit the brakes, since that will make you more likely to lose traction and crash than if you maintain a steady speed through the corner. If you’ve slowed down to a safe speed before entering the corner, you should be all right. If you are going too fast and need to slow down in a corner, stand the bike up for a brief moment, brake, then immediately lean back into the curve. If you do this for more than a split second, you will run off the road, which sort of defeats your purpose.
Don’t Panic
If you find yourself going into a curve too fast on dry pavement, don’t panic. Just lean harder into the curve. The more you lean, the sharper you turn. You need to trust the capability of your tires. Although motorcycles have less traction than cars, they have more traction than you might imagine. Just watch a Grand Prix racer go through a curve leaned over so far that it looks like he’s riding sideways. That should give you an idea of just how much traction a motorcycle can have.
Leaning harder actually slows you down. By leaning harder, you can scrub off excess speed with your tires. The most important thing is to keep a cool head. Unless you are going at a ridiculous speed, if you don’t panic, you should be able to make just about any corner.
Your safest bet is to make certain you’re not going too fast when you enter the corner in the first place. If you’re in doubt, slow down even more. You can get in a lot less trouble by going too slow through a corner than you can by going too fast. If you’re riding within your abilities, you should be able to stop a bike at any time, as well as maneuver around any obstacle, whether you are going straight or around a corner.
Cornering Lines
The path you take through a corner plays an important role in both safety and speed (the safest line through a curve is also the fastest). By selecting the right route, you increase your visibility and make yourself more obvious to oncoming traffic. The most important thing is to stay in your lane. One of the leading causes of fatalities among people who treat public highways like racetracks—hotshots who ride at unsafe speeds on twisting public roads - is straying over the center line and getting hit by oncoming traffic.
When going around a corner, treat your lane like it’s the only part of the road that exists. The oncoming lane might as well be a cliff or a solid wall of rock, because under no circumstance can you ride there when going around a curve.
When approaching a corner, move to the outside of the lane before entering the turn. This lets you see farther around the corner, and it also makes you visible to oncoming traffic earlier. When you enter the corner, turn hard, moving away from oncoming traffic as you negotiate the curve. Racers take this line through a curve because it is the fastest way to do so, but you do it on the street because it affords you the best visibility of oncoming traffic and any hazards that might be on the road ahead.
Throttle & Brake : Throttle Control !
Starting out riding a seriously underpowered machine can encourage this bad habit. The difference in progress between zero and full throttle is so little on the machines that young learners are restricted to in some countries that full throttle becomes an automatic response to wanting to speed up a bit. Such behavior spells disaster on a "serious" motorcycle.
Top racers only hold a fixed speed in long sweeping constant radius turns; otherwise they are either braking or accelerating pretty much all the time. The amount may be small into and out of the apex of a turn, but it’s there. The changes may be gentle or swift and are always smooth. It requires sensitivity to messages from the tires to judge it and sensitivity of control to apply it.
Sensitivity
Now I am not suggesting you should ride at the limit of traction on the street but you should exercise the same sensitivity of control to adjust the power and protect your safety margin. The maximum cornering traction is available when the machine has exactly the right throttle to hold constant speed. Accelerating shifts the weight back but the extra traction used by the rear tire is not fully compensated by the increase in weight.
So when you are exiting a turn you need to feed the power in gradually as you straighten up. In an ideal world, the proportion of the available traction you are using remains the same as the tire work shifts from pure braking through a mix of braking and cornering, pure cornering, cornering with acceleration and finally pure acceleration with the machine upright. In the first two phases the front tire works harder, it’s equal in pure cornering then the rear tire gets the major stress.
Masterly Inactivity
As your riding skills improve, the times when you find yourself waiting to get more throttle back on can become frustrating. It is not natural to be "doing nothing" in a turn, you are nearly always busy doing something. First, accept that even trackstars dislike this waiting period. I’m an impatient guy and it really used to bug me.
The best tip I ever got was when I was talking to Bob B, an investment guru. He said he got just as frustrated waiting for the stock market to respond to new information and called the frustrating period of sitting on his hands after setting up his trading positions ‘masterly inactivity’. So now every time I’m itching to get the power back on but know I mustn’t, I remind myself it’s ‘masterly inactivity’ and immediately feel better !
The Throttle Isn’t a Brake
Yes you’ve got engine braking. The bigger the power to weight ratio of the machine, the more engine braking you have available. So what? Sure you can change down early so that we can all hear how your revs are perfectly matched in the downshift, then slow on the engine. But is it good riding ? Not in my opinions. Control of decelerating is far more precise with the brakes. I’m not telling you to stay in a high
gear to reduce engine braking. You want to be in the right gear. If that produces too much or too little engine braking for your purposes, you have the controls to add power or brake. The engine, throttle off, does what it does. It was designed to speed you up not slow you down so use the right tool for the job.
The only time that engine braking gives any real benefit is descending mountains. Holding a lower gear on steep, never ending descents reduces the load on the brakes and prevents them over-heating.
Throttle and rear brake at the same time ? Do I ever do this ?
And The answer is : Yes, for low speed maneuvers.
For tightening my line once into a turn ?
Never, I correct my line by steering.
To prevent speeding up through downhill turns ?
No, I am throttle off and using both brakes gently together, about 2:1 front: rear effort. I have seen simultaneous throttle and rear brake recommended for a number of other purposes that have never worked for me. If you have comments or tips on this subject I would love to hear them.
How to Choose Your Riding Gear : Helmets !
Make no mistake about it: Not wearing a helmet is stupid. According to a long-term study conducted by Professor Harry Hurt for the University of Southern California’s Head Protection Research Laboratory, you’re five times more likely to suffer a serious head injury if you have an accident while not wearing a helmet than you are if you crash while wearing one. Every study ever conducted backs up Hurt’s findings.
Given the overwhelming evidence supporting the effectiveness of helmets, you’d think everyone wears one, but you’d be wrong. Stand on any street corner in a state without helmet laws, and you’ll see as many bare heads as you will see helmeted heads. People go to extreme lengths to justify their choice to not wear a helmet, but none of their justifications hold up in the face of all the available research. The arguments that helmets break necks, block vision, impair hearing, and cause overheating have been proven myths by every study ever conducted.
I believe most people who don’t wear helmets make their decision based on peer pressure. Otherwise reasonable, intelligent adults seem more afraid of facing the ridicule of their comrades than they are of living out the rest of their lives as produce. I actually had a man at the annual motorcycle rally in Sturgis tell me he always wore a helmet but wasn’t wearing one during the rally because his friends weren’t wearing theirs. I was a rebel, I told him, and I wore mine anyway.
I was once in his position. I rode for over a decade without a helmet, mainly because when I was young, I hung out with hardcore Harley bikers, and they would have thought I was some kind of wimp had I worn a helmet.
When I was 25, I took a job working as an orderly in a rehabilitation hospital, in the head-and-spine-injury unit. One patient I worked with was a victim of a motorcycle crash. He didn’t break a single bone in his accident, and had he been wearing a helmet, he would have walked away with nothing but his pride injured. But he wasn’t wearing one, and he hit his head on a rock.
While his body was perfectly healthy, the patient couldn’t remember where he was from one minute to the next. One of my jobs was to lead him to the cafeteria every day, because he forgot its location from one meal to the next. That spring, my wife and I both bought motorcycle helmets, and I haven’t ridden without one since.
Besides protecting your head, a good-fitting helmet actually makes riding more comfortable. Helmets reduce road noise, keep the wind blast out of your face, and keep bugs and other debris out of your eyes.
How Helmets Are Made
Helmets help keep the contents of your head on the inside rather than the outside by using four basic components in their construction:
- The outer shell. The outside of a helmet, usually constructed of fiberglass or injection-molded plastic, disperses energy from an impact across a broad area of the helmet before that energy reaches your head.
- The impact-absorbing lining. This area inside the outer shell, usually made of a dense layer of expanded polystyrene, absorbs most of the shock caused by an impact.
- The comfort padding. This innermost layer of soft foam and cloth conforms to your head and is primarily responsible for how comfortable the helmet is.
- The retention system. This consists of the strap connected to the bottom of the helmet that goes under your chin and holds the helmet on.
Helmets come in a variety of styles, from small, bowl-shaped half-helmets that protect your brain stem and not much else, to sleek fully enclosed helmets that protect everything above your neck. In between are the three-quarter, or open-face helmets, which cover most of your head but leave your face unprotected. These give better protection than half helmets, but should your face contact the pavement at speed, an open-face helmet will provide you with a one-way ticket on the ugly train. Neither half helmets nor open-face helmets offer the comfort full-face helmets provide by shielding the wearer from the elements.
Whichever type of helmet you choose, the important thing is to choose a helmet. It is the single most crucial piece of motorcycle gear.
Choosing the Right Helmet
Helmets come in a variety of styles and prices. You can get a full-face helmet for under $100, while high-end helmets can run over $500, or even more than you thought for brand new "hi-tech" helmet.
Why do some helmets cost more than others ? There are a variety of reasons. Paint schemes add to the price of a helmet; expect to pay more for a helmet with fancy graphics than for a solid-color helmet. (If the paint scheme replicates the helmet of a top racer, expect to pay more yet.) Some expensive helmets are more comfortable than cheaper helmets, while others are not.
Some helmets cost more because they use more expensive material in their outer shells. This may contribute to comfort by making the helmet lighter, but it doesn’t make the helmet any safer.
Safety First
All helmets have to meet minimum safety standards set by the Department of Transportation (DOT). Two other organizations, the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) and the Snell Memorial Foundation, also certify helmets. A Snell certification is something I look for on a helmet. Snell won’t certify a half or open-face helmet, as DOT will, and it also has more exacting standards for the retention system than DOT.
If you choose a half helmet, be certain you are getting one approved by DOT. Lately, unscrupulous dealers have been placing DOT stickers (stickers applied to the helmet listing the helmet as DOT approved) on unsafe novelty helmets. Genuine DOT-approved helmets also have a label permanently attached to the inside of the helmet displaying DOT information, like the date of manufacture. Make sure you’re getting the real thing.
Getting a Good Fit
When you get used to wearing a helmet, you will not feel comfortable riding without one. Of course, that assumes that you’ve picked a helmet that fits you well. A helmet that is too loose might flop around while you’re riding, obstructing your vision, and a helmet that is too tight will live up to the worst predictions of the anti-helmet crowd.
If all heads were the same shape, choosing a helmet would be simple: You’d just match your helmet size to your hat size. Unfortunately, helmets have to conform to your entire head rather than just a ring around your forehead.
Because of the difficulty involved in selecting a properly fitting helmet, I strongly advise you to purchase your first one from a store where you can try on different models and sizes. While you can often save money by purchasing accessories through online shop, you won’t be saving any money if you can’t wear the helmet you order from a online shop ads because it doesn’t fit.
A helmet should feel fairly snug on your head to prevent it from sliding around and possibly obscuring your vision or falling off in an accident. It may feel too tight when you first put it on. When in place, a properly fitting helmet should not slide around on your head. At the same time, you need to watch for pressure points - places where the helmet pushes uncomfortably against your head.
When you try on a helmet, wear it around the store for a bit, and when you take it off, note any soreness or red spots. Wearing a helmet that exerts pressure on your head can turn into a brutal form of torture after an extended period; improperly fitted helmets have permanently turned many riders against helmet use. If the helmet you are trying on touches pressure points, try on a larger size or a different brand or model.
Steering Through Sticky Situations : Freeway Riding !
1. Traffic moves in only one direction on freeways.
2. Freeways remove your number-one hazard : vehicles in oncoming lanes turning left in front of you.
But riding on a freeway presents a new set of challenges. Traffic moves faster on freeways, meaning that things happen faster. You have to look even farther ahead on a freeway to give yourself more time to react to an emergency. The faster traffic moves, the farther ahead you need to look.
On a freeway, you have to be careful not to ride too fast. Motorcycles can cut through freeway traffic more quickly than cars, making it easier to speed on a bike. But riding much faster than traffic puts you at risk, because if you’re riding too fast, you won’t be able to react if a car moves into your lane. And even though you don’t have intersections on a freeway, you have on ramps and off ramps, both of which create challenges for a motorcyclist.
When you ride as far away from on and off ramps as possible, this places you in what is usually the fastest lane of traffic. This can be the safest lane to ride in, since you only have to worry about traffic moving on one side of your motorcycle. But it can also be a more dangerous lane, if traffic is moving so fast that you don’t have enough time to react if someone moves into your lane. Like everything else, the key here is awareness of your surroundings. Take into account such factors as the amount of traffic and how fast traffic is moving when selecting the safest lane.
On ramps are especially tricky on a bike. These often consist of tight turns, forcing you to lean hard to turn your motorcycle. This in itself wouldn’t be that problematic, but on ramps usually have extra-slippery surfaces, forcing you to negotiate the ramp more slowly than you would in a car. The cars, of course, won’t slow down for you, and will tailgate you or even try to pass you.
Having to negotiate the curve on an on ramp is the first challenge; the second challenge is to adjust your speed once you have negotiated the curve so that you can enter traffic safely. This is where a motorcycle’s capability to accelerate quickly comes into play.
As you round the curve of an on ramp, monitor the traffic in the lane you will merge in and locate a safe space to enter that lane. Once you have finished negotiating the curve and the motorcycle is upright, accelerate toward the safe spot you’ve identified, adjusting your speed so that you can safely merge with traffic.
When passing an on ramp where other traffic is merging onto the freeway, move over to a lane as far away from the on ramp as possible. Drivers merging into your lane may not see your motorcycle and may mistake the space you’re occupying as a free spot to enter traffic. And other drivers in your lane may be watching the merging traffic and not see you. If they move over to let the merging traffic enter, they may hit you.
This is also a problem at off ramps. If you are driving in the lane closest to the off ramp, you risk getting cut off by a driver who doesn’t see you and thinks he or she has a clear shot at the off ramp. Slow down as you approach an off ramp. As with an on ramp, your safest location is as far away from the ramp as possible.
Lane Positioning
You can do a lot to increase your safety on crowded multilane roads by always being conscious of your lane positioning. Always think of where your bike is in relation to the other vehicles on the road. Try not to ride in people’s blind spots, and try not to ride beside vehicles. If you position yourself so that there are no people driving along side you, no one can make a sudden lane change that will cause him or her to hit your motorcycle.
It’s especially important to keep a safe distance between your motorcycle and trucks. Remember, the larger the vehicle, the larger its blind spot. Sport utility vehicles are especially bad. If you find yourself beside any vehicle, especially a truck, speed up if you have room, until you are well in front of the vehicle. If you don’t have room to speed up, you are probably following the vehicle in front of you too closely. If that is the case, you should slow down just a bit, until the vehicle in the lane beside you is clearly in your field of vision, then wait until there is adequate room ahead of you to pass.
Changing Lanes
Because traffic moves so quickly on a freeway, changing lanes requires extra caution on your part, especially on freeways with more than two lanes of traffic. On such multiple-lane freeways, not only do you need to check to make certain the lane is clear before you enter it, but you need to check to see if someone from another lane is moving into the free spot you have identified.
The speed of traffic also makes the vehicles behind you more of a threat when changing lanes on a freeway. You always need to let the vehicles behind you know what you intend to do. Once you have made certain that a lane is clear, slow down and use your turning signal early. Do everything possible to communicate your intentions to other drivers. Watch to make certain the car behind you is slowing down.
Getting cut off by the vehicle behind you while you change lanes on a freeway illustrates the importance of avoiding tailgaters. When other vehicles follow you too closely, carefully get out of their way and let them pass. Remember to signal early and make definite moves so that the driver behind you is aware of what you are doing.
And remember not to trust that the other driver sees you, just because he or she slows down. Even if the other driver sees you slow down, he or she might not see your turning signal, since motorcycle turning signals aren’t very bright and can be hard for other drivers to see, especially in bright sunlight. Before you change lanes, make certain the driver behind you isn’t planning to change lanes, too.
When you change lanes, don’t do so in other drivers’ blind spots. This is another situation where the speed of your motorcycle comes in handy. You can use that speed to accelerate out of other drivers’ blind spots, moving into a position where they can see you.
Always make sure you’re riding in the correct gear for a given speed. To accelerate quickly, you need to keep your revs in the powerband. Remember, your motorcycle was designed to operate most efficiently at certain RPMs; when you ride with your tachometer in the most efficient rev zone, you can instantly accelerate if you need to.
Rain Grooves
Some roads have grooves cut into their surface to facilitate the removal of water in a rainstorm. These rain grooves are especially common on freeways. They can cause your bike to feel unstable—a disconcerting experience, even for expert motorcyclists. But don’t worry; even though your bike may feel like it is moving all over the place, it is a relatively harmless situation. That is, unless you panic.
Rain grooves are channels cut into a road’s surface to help water run off the road in a rainstorm. These can make your bike feel squirrelly when you ride over them, but if you relax and don’t fight it, you’ll be fine.
When you hit rain grooves, the best thing to do is relax your grip on the bars and just ride it out. If you tense up and try to fight it, your bike will only move around more.
Steering Through Sticky Situations : Intersection Encounters !
I'm going to provide you with generally accepted procedures for dealing with certain situations, but when you’re by yourself out on the road, you’re going to have to make your own decisions based on your own observations in a given situation. Keep in mind the principles in this chapter as general templates, but in the end, rely on the information you gather through your own diligent observations to ultimately guide your actions.
Intersection Encounters
The most dangerous situation you’ll encounter on a bike is a driver turning left in front of you, and most often that happens in some sort of intersection, making intersections the most dangerous places to ride. You can do much to minimize that danger by following certain procedures when approaching and passing through an intersection. When you ride through any intersection - that is, any area where traffic can possibly cross your lane of traffic, always consider the following :
- Slow down. This puts you in control of the situation. It gives you more time to scan the intersection for potential dangers. The earlier you can detect a dangerous situation, the quicker you can react to avoid it. Slowing by just 10 miles per hour reduces your necessary stopping distance by almost half.
- Cover your front brake when riding through an intersection. This reduces your reaction time.
- Position your bike away from other cars. This gives you room to maneuver out of the way if an errant car jockey fails to see you and moves toward you.
- Watch the front tires of other vehicles, but it’s doubly important at an intersection. An oncoming vehicle with its tires turned toward your lane can pull in front of you nearly half a second quicker than can a vehicle with its wheels pointing straight ahead. In this situation, half a second is literally worth a lifetime.
- Make absolutely certain an intersection is clear of other traffic before you proceed. Watch for drivers stopped in other lanes waiting to turn—they may not see you and turn in front of you. Slow down enough to allow yourself room to stop.
Memorize the above rules, internalize them, and make them part of your riding techniques. By doing this, you’ll significantly reduce your chances of getting in an accident.
Types of Intersections
When riding, consider any area where something might cross your path an intersection. This includes the usual places, like crossings and where two roads meet, but it includes a lot of places you might not consider to be intersections.
For example, turnouts are intersections. Turnouts are often located at scenic points, and people pulling into and out of them tend to pay more attention to the scenery than to traffic. This applies to any spot where people congregate alongside a road, like a beach, a bridge people fish off of, or a park-and-ride parking lot (parking lots along roads where commuters leave their cars and get on buses). Always slow down when passing such a place, and move away from the side of the road the turnout is located on, giving yourself more room to maneuver.
The most dangerous intersections are the intricate ones, where several roads converge at once. Traffic doesn’t follow usual patterns at such intersections, and vehicles enter the road at unexpected angles. Often there will be frontage roads (roads running parallel to main roads) merging at such intersections, too, further confusing everybody. When riding through these intersections, slow down even more than you normally do, because you have more activity to monitor.
Moving Through Intersections
When passing through an intersection while you’re following a vehicle that blocks your view, like a bus, watch for left-turning vehicles that are unable to see you behind the bus. Again, leave plenty of space between you and the vehicle in front of you so that you have room to get out of the way. And position yourself in the part of the lane that allows you to see and be seen.
In some ways, alleys are similar to intersections, because you have to watch for traffic crossing your path in an alley. Alleys are filled with blind driveways, and people often back their cars out without looking. Even a diligent driver who looks before backing up might not be able to see you because of some obstruction, like a fence or a trash dumpster. And kids and animals like to hang out in alleys, too. Slow down when you ride through an alley, and watch for kids, dogs, cats, and cars.
When you are following large vehicles in traffic, you may not be able to decide where to position your bike. If you can see oncoming vehicles clearly, it’s best to ride on the far-right side of the lane, positioning yourself as far away as possible from a left-turning driver. But if you’re following a bus or a truck, you may be better off riding in the far left part of the lane, where they can best see you, and where you can scan for possible left-turning drivers.
Stopping at an Intersection
When approaching an intersection where you need to stop, pay extra attention to the vehicles behind you. Be especially careful when stopping on a yellow light, in case the driver behind you thinks yellow means put the accelerator to the floor and drive like crazy.
Because of the danger of drivers rear-ending you at intersections, you need to scan for a possible escape route whenever you approach an intersection. Always position yourself toward one edge of the lane or the other to provide the quickest escape route, should you need one. Choose the side of the lane that gives you the most free space to maneuver out of the way, which will usually be the side of the lane farthest away from oncoming traffic.
When you stop behind a vehicle, don’t pull up close behind it. If you do so, you’ll block yourself in. You won’t have room to move out of the way if the vehicle in front backs up, and you won’t have room to get around the vehicle in front if the vehicle behind you doesn’t stop. Always leave enough room between you and the vehicle in front of you so that you can move around it in an emergency situation.
Leaving yourself enough room to maneuver is important any time you have to stop, whether or not you’re at an intersection. Even on the freeway, expect trouble from behind, and monitor the traffic behind you. If you see a vehicle behind you that’s not stopping, look for a clear spot and rapidly accelerate toward it.
To do this, your bike will have to be ready to go. When you sit at an intersection, or anytime you have to stop when there is traffic around, keep your bike in first gear, with the clutch lever pulled in. That way, if you need to get out of someone’s way in a hurry, you won’t have to waste time putting the bike in gear.
When you stop at an intersection, look for the best traction for putting your feet down. Avoid putting your feet down on any damp, shiny, or dark spot. The spot may be oil, antifreeze, or diesel, which is the most slippery fluid you’ll encounter. (Some people refer to diesel on the road as black ice.)
Also be careful not to put your feet down on any painted lines or marks in an intersection. Painted spots will be slippery, and just a small slip of your foot when you are stopping can cause you to wipe out. And remember, if you fall down because of something slippery on the road, there’s a pretty good chance that whoever is following you will also hit the slippery stuff and possibly lose traction, too.
The safest part of the lane to put your foot down in is the tire track. The slippery goop that drips off cars builds up in the center of the lane. When you put your foot down, place it at the edge of the tire track farthest away from the center of the lane.
Leaving an Intersection
When leaving an intersection, the number-one thing to remember is not to proceed until you’re absolutely certain that the path is clear. When the light turns green, wait until things settle before entering the intersection.
Realize that some people consider the first part of a red light just an extension of the yellow. I’ve almost been taken out by drivers who continue through intersections when they have a red light. The only way to protect yourself from red-light runners is to slow down when you ride through an intersection. Always make certain the path is clear before entering an intersection, even if you have the right of way.
When starting through an intersection from a standing stop, it is especially important not to trust eye contact as a means of determining if another driver has seen you. Even if another driver sees you, he or she might not register your motorcycle as traffic.
Turning in Intersections
The same rules that apply to passing through an intersection apply to turning at an intersection. Make certain that all lanes are clear before making a turn.
Often, other traffic will block your view at an intersection, especially if a turning lane is present. If you find your view blocked, slowly ease ahead until you can see past the offending vehicle. Remember, when you do this, your tire will enter traffic before your view clears, so be extra cautious. Lean forward and stretch your neck ahead as far as is comfortable, being careful to remain stable and in control of the bike, to see around the vehicle blocking your view. This will help make certain you don’t roll your bike out in front of an oncoming vehicle when you ease ahead to clear your view.
When making a turn at an intersection, be extra careful when trucks are present. Trucks with long trailers make wide turns, and they often need more than one lane to negotiate a turn in an intersection. If you pull up beside a truck, thinking the truck is going straight, and the truck turns in your direction, you could be trapped.
You may be able to power ahead and get out of the situation, but then you run the risk of being struck by an oncoming vehicle hidden from your view by the truck. If you’re lucky, there will be a shoulder instead of a curb at the side of the road, allowing you space to get away from the trailer.
Your best course of action is to not get in such a situation in the first place. Avoid squeezing between a truck and something else at all costs, even if it means not entering a turning lane and having to use a different route.
Avoiding Dangerous Intersections
Some intersections are death traps for motorcyclists. You will encounter intersections with electromagnetic stoplight sensors (which trigger a change in the traffic light by detecting large masses of metal over them) that can’t detect an object as small as your motorcycle. At such intersections, you can find yourself faced with the choice of running a red light or waiting until a car pulls up behind you, neither of which is an acceptable option.
Other intersections may have too many obstructions—like signs, lightposts, and buildings—for you to make certain all lanes are clear before you enter them. If you know of an intersection like this, one that makes you uncomfortable, avoid it if at all possible. Even if you have to ride a few extra miles, if you can select a safer route, your chances of arriving are improved by avoiding dangerous intersections.
How do You Learn to be Smooth Riders ?
On the street or on the track, smooth is quicker and safer. If you over-ride, trying to go faster than your abilities, you will go slower as well as being a danger to yourself and everybody else. You see it every track day, at least one guy out to prove he is the next champ and making a total hash of it.
Smoothness on the street pays off too. Smooth keeps your bike nicely balanced, always ready to accept a change of speed or direction so enlarging your buffer zone and keeping your options open....
What makes smooth?
Think of a pendulum or a child on a swing. Can you see exactly when the upswing stops or the downswing starts? Not really, because the transitions are so smooth. Yet it can be going at a good lick when it goes through the bottom of the arc. This pendulum effect is what you are aiming for each time you :
- Go on and off the brakes
- Go into and out of a turn
- Accelerate
- MOST IMPORTANT – change your mind halfway through a maneuver
It’s the last one that’s hardest to learn. Moves you planned in advance can be smoothed out with a bit of practice. Reactive moves – like having to change line mid-corner to avoid an obstruction are the difficult ones.
How do You Learn to be Smooth ?
I’m going to tell you a secret... To be slow at the ends you must be quick in the middle. If you try to smooth out the riding you are doing now, you will start braking earlier for corners, ease into and out of the turn and take your time getting going down the straight. Smooth but slow. Not the way to make quick adjustments. Learn to brake hard ! Yeah,I mean 1g+. I already told you about this in previous article.
Learn to snap in and out of corners. Pushing the bike down and heaving it out of corners in a hurry takes extra effort at speed. Learn to do this by finding the counter-steering and body steer techniques you are comfortable with that allow you to virtually throw your bike in and out of turns. Accelerating fast seems to come naturally to most bikers ! Points to watch are being in the right gear, mastering clutchless up-shifts and moving your weight forward to counter wheelies.
Does this look like the complete opposite of smooth? It will sure feel that way as you learn. But you can and will master these things. Then, you start working on smooth.
Move to Smooth Part 1
Pick a familiar corner. Use your old familiar approach speed, braking point and entry point. Smooth your braking by progressively squeezing the binders on until you are braking harder than you normally do. When you know you have overbraked, ease off the brakes to arrive at your entry point will no brake at all. Bet you found you were overbraked earlier than you expected. Surprising how much difference a bit of extra stopper makes.
Ride the corner in the old way. See how much time and distance it takes you to get into and out of the turn. How does it compare with what you can do now if you throw the machine into the curve ? Next time try the turn with your best snap in/out style. Quick, but maybe not so smooth. Now smooth out your snaps ; think of the swing and try to roll into and out of your snaps. This does not come easy. But keep at it because you are building a key skill for road and track.
Concentrate on smoothing the end of the snap first. It is important not to overshoot and wobble at the end of these moves so as to keep the bike settled and stable. Starting a snap smoothly is actually easier to master, but you can’t give it your full attention until you are 100% comfortable with ending the snap smoothly. When you have had a bit of practice, watch other good riders and ask them for tips. Styles vary, for example some riders use a lot more body steer than others. So, don’t copy what doesn’t feel right to YOU.
Move to Smooth Part 2
If you are comfortable doing each action smoothly on its own, now is the time to start on the advanced stuff. You want to bring the separate actions together so that you are trail braking as you start setting up the turn. You have probably heard about trail braking already and how it is supposed to improve your lap times, but that is not what I am talking about here. I am trying to show you the way to stop fork bobbing that happens when you let off hard braking and the forks come up only to dive back down as the centrifugal force in the turn gets added to the weight of the front of the bike. To ride smooth, you want to reduce the braking load as the lean goes on so that the fork movement doesn’t change direction. For a curve where you need to slow down significantly, the forks will be most compressed under braking, rising a little getting into the turn and more as the power is fed in from the apex. It’s the unload and load up action bobbing the front end that unsettles the bike and makes it wriggle instead of settling cleanly into the turn.
The amount of front brake you can use at moderate lean angles is surprisingly high. Racers use this to brake later, but that is not what I am trying to get across here.
Work on eliminating the fork bobbing by tailing off the brake and merging it into setting your lean. Get it right and you suddenly find things have smoothed out and are almost in slow motion. Beautiful. Using the end bit of braking to adjust your entry point and speed is a luxury you never had before.
To become an advanced motorcycle rider you need to get this right and master the tricky moves like a tight left followed immediately by an even tighter right. When you can’t set it up by adjusting your line through the left-hander enough to ease the right turn, then you have to brake in between. Pulling the bike up, braking hard and laying it down the other way, all in a matter of moments, is an art that will take time to acquire. The payoff is much more agility on the street or on the track. On the street you can react fast to new hazards, changing speed, position and line confidently so as to avoid trouble. On the track you can make a quick flowing sequence out of moves that before were bitty and disjointed. You won’t look quicker but you will be lapping faster.
Get Fitted Up Your Motorcycle !
Adjusting the controls "spot on" gives you optimum control with maximum comfort. Each control action does its own job without disturbing balance or weight distribution, in an emergency that can be the difference between staying in control and coming off.
So let’s look at how to do it.
Set that Front Brake
- We want instant braking
- Good "feel"
- Easy throttle blipping for smooth down changes
OK, in your normal ‘at speed’ body posture, reach out for the brake. It needs to be angled so that it "falls to hand". Try it eyes closed. If the lever is too high your wrist will bend up uncomfortably and it will be even worse as you lean back into your braking posture. If the lever is too low, it might feel OK in your sit up braking posture but it won’t fall naturally to hand at speed.
Once you have found the small range of rotation of the lever that feels right for just braking, work on braking and blipping the throttle at the same time. Most times you do this, you will be in sit up posture under firm braking, slowing for a curve, but just occasionally you will want to brake and downshift while maintaining your ‘at speed’ posture. (I find this happens when aborting a passing maneuver and getting ready for the next chance).
Riding with 2 fingers covering the brake is a recommended technique – but it may require a different setting.
Perfect blipping is most critical when under heavy braking because that’s when rear tire is lightly loaded you are most likely to break traction with a bad downshift, so bias your final setting to favor this situation.
Set the Clutch
Easier than setting the brake lever because your left hand only has one job. For me precision clutch control is most demanding when maneuvering at walking pace, so I want the angle set for that.
The other thing to adjust is the clutch biting point. Two things are important here: low speed maneuvering and quick downshifts at speed. To get quick shifts, I want the clutch disengaged with only a part squeeze on the lever, not have to pull it up to the grip. For maneuvering and stopstart city traffic, you want the ‘just engaging’ point of the travel at the most comfortable and controllable amount of squeeze. Bikes with a heavy clutch or a long, draggy action can be a pain! One thing is for sure, you’ll always ride better with your best compromise setting than the way it came. And if it is still a pain, maybe you should see if there are any upgrades or modifications available for your model.
Set the Rear Brake
If you thought adjusting hand controls was fiddly, you ain’t seen nothing yet!
The rear brake is the third control that needs ‘feel’ and feedback to the rider. Motorcycles vary in the pedal pressure and travel that’s needed. You only need enough pressure to squeal, not lock(!), the rear tire at 70mph. The brake may be capable of more than this but you won’t ever be able to use it, even with a failed front brake. If you have the confidence and control to rear tire squeal from 70mph down to 20mph, I congratulate you. You truly are a rear brake maestro. If not, please don’t start practising at 70 mph unless you are feeling suicidal!
Unless you are a maestro already, set your brake for maximum comfort and control when using it fairly gently for low speed work and slippery conditions.
The correct way to make adjustments may not be obvious, check out the manufacturer’s instructions in the manual. Make adjustments a little at a time. Remember that a pedal set too low could reduce ground clearance and the available lean angle. Look what other settings (peg position for example) are available on your model.
Set the Gear Shift
There is probably more variation in travel, weight, feel, crispness and adjustment in gearshifts than in any other motorcycle control. Just be glad you are not forced to use hand gear selection that was popular in the old days. Read the manual to see how to make adjustments. Aim to be able to make quick, clean shifts both up and down without repositioning your foot or straining your ankle. Be aware of possible ground clearance issues.
When you reckon you have got the right setting just do a quick check to make sure selecting first at standstill with your other foot down still feels OK. This move is different because you are unbalanced and out of the normal body position. Sports bikes can be a bit awkward and tiring to ride in the city unless you get it right.
I hope you have got your bike set up to suit you now. I promise it will make a major improvement to your comfort and control. As you get familiar with the new feel, give yourself a little time to settle in, but don’t be afraid to make further minor adjustments that get the total package working in harmony.
Setting the bike for precision control is groundwork advanced riding.
A Fun Place for Local Bikers to Hang Out
When you walk inside the shop there is an instant cozy feeling, which carries through the whole place. The owners are Randy and Sandy Morris who were very friendly and sat and talked with us for quite a while. The store carries all kinds of motorcycle related gear, although on a small scale. They strive to only sell locally made merchandise, artwork, and clothing. There were some really unique items that caught my eye as I surveyed the goods.
The shop organizes weekly meetups and rides when the weather looks good. They have movie nights, dinners, and other social events for bikers to keep busy with during the winter. There are a couple of women’s riding groups that meet there also, one of them being the Chrome Divas.
I don’t live real close to Everett, but I will definitely go back, hang out, and have a latte. Even the coffee is from a local independent vendor who roasts his own beans! It was one of the best lattes I’ve had in a long time. They are also adding a small kitchen so will serve sandwiches and such after March.
If you are ever in the neighborhood, the shop is located just a few blocks off of I-5 and has lots of parking. I like to support the local economy so I stand behind the small businesses in our area. Old Strokers doesn’t have a website, but their My Space page is at www.myspace.com/oldstrokers. Their hosted rides are posted on Meetup.com . Check it out.
Wedding weekend with motorcycles
My 82 year old mother and my brother are flying in from the Bay Area today, so I will have my hands full for a few days. I won't be posting until after the weekend, unless I get some free time away from all the festivities. I plan to take alot of pictures so my next post should have some cool motorcycles in it.
So for now, here is a video I found interesting about women bikers in India:
Destination - ride for food
We plan our routes in advance, making sure that the end of our ride will bring a necessary break and a meal. Even if we are on a long ride, we make sure there is a town to stop in around meal times. Our favorite is to get lunch and we’re willing to ride quite a distance for some of our best remembered meals.
Another thing that makes us happy is to come across a farmer’s market or fresh produce stand. We love to take leftovers from our meal or fruits and vegetables home in our saddlebags.
If you’ve been following the second season of Feasting on Asphalt with Alton Brown on the Food Network, you will see we are not the only people who ride for food. This season seems to have better food stops and more interesting people along the way. What a dream job to ride around the country eating your way through it. They have a good sized group of guys riding together while they are filming on the road. It always looks like the crew can’t wait to eat but have to until they are through filming the segment.
I have many friends who ride motorcycles, and they agree that they also ride for food and a brew. It is a common thread among people who ride to plan where they will land for a meal or a beverage. If you play it by ear, still the best rides eventually involve food.
Good food is one of the joys of life. I enjoy cooking at home, but even better than that is riding your motorcycle to a food destination. Two things I love, food and motorcycle riding. It doesn’t get much better!
Motorcycle Day Trip up State Highway 9
Since today is the start of the Labor Day weekend, we decided to go for a nice motorcycle ride. The weather was sunny and the sky was a clear blue, something we haven’t had enough of this summer for our weekend enjoyment.
We got a late start this morning so decided to take a nice 40 mile ride north to Arlington, WA where there was a Cycle Barn we could check out. By then we would be ready to catch a bite to eat – our destinations always seem to involve eating in one way or another.
We got the bikes out, and this time I brought the camera so I can start taking pictures of things along the way. I am not a photographer by any means, and nothing seems to look as beautiful in a picture as it does in real life. I put my saddlebags back on the bike, since they had been off while I ‘tried’ to work on the cycle and had to take the seat off.
It was a real nice cruise heading east from our town. We picked up Washington State Highway 9 just near the southern border of Snohomish County. Then we headed north. It is a very straight, two-lane road with a 55 mph speed limit most of the way. It is lined on both sides with dense trees and the occasional rural house or clearing. The section of road we were on has recently been paved and so was smooth and great for cruising.
These pictures were taken after I missed a road, and ended up on a detour road. I had to snap some of the beauty before we headed back towards the motorcycle shop we were looking for.
We found the Cycle Barn and I found some riding jeans with a skull on the back pocket that I had to have. After looking at all the shiny motorcycles, I bought the pants and we left. By then we decided it was time to eat. My better half had noticed a Der Weinersnitzel on one of the previous roads. Oh! That is from my childhood and I didn’t know they still had them. This one was new and was a combo Tastee Freeze/Der Weinersnitzel. They have many kinds of hot dogs and ice cream treats! It was yummy.
Finally we were full, happy, and ready to head
home. We had a perfect ride back passing through Lake Stevens, which is a beautiful sapphire blue lake that has parks and many residences around it. It is large enough for waterskiing and other speed boats. The areas we covered are mostly rural with more and more subdivisions popping up everywhere. We only saw one dead possum, remnants of a dead rat, and one dead raccoon on the road.
My Suzuki S40 ran pretty good all the way, but started acting squirrelly like it was going to die a couple of times on the way back while sitting at red lights. All in all it was an 81 mile round trip ride and a lot of fun. I hope to ride somewhere new tomorrow. It was fun....
Ride for a cause
The notice about the ride stayed with me all day, and when my husband got home I mentioned it to him. We had only been riding a couple of years, and hadn’t ridden in a group before. We decided to just do it.
Saturday morning came and we woke up and anxiously got ready for our ride. We started up the motorcycles and rode the half mile up to Jason’s Java. There waited Jason, with a chromed out Harley Road King in the parking lot. He was surprised to see us, but happy to have more riders for the cause. One by one the riders came and we greeted each one and introduced ourselves. Everyone was appreciating each others bikes. There were 10 of us altogether, with 2 women riders including myself.
We paid $20 each and still didn’t know who the ride was going to benefit. All the bikers were willing to pay and ride just for the opportunity to help someone in need. Jason began telling us about a local 18 year old boy who had just been stricken with multiple sclerosis and was already confined to a wheelchair. He had gone to school one Monday and was fine. By Friday he couldn’t walk. It was a sad story; and Jason went on to say that the family needed help, of course, with the medical bills. Then a man spoke up from the group and said he was the dad. We were all motivated by that point to ride…..
We took off and rode the back roads from Brier, which is located north of Seattle, WA. We headed east towards the foothills of the Cascade Mountains. We rode lots of twisty, cornfield bordered roads. The feeling of riding in a group was wonderful. It was a little hard to resist going faster than the group. I felt that I was holding back, but got used to it after a while. What wonderful farmland and fields we saw. We stopped in the town of Duvall, where there is a little ‘biker bar’ that any biker in this part of the state has probably been to. We had some refreshments, took some pictures of all the bikes lined up outside, and started back. In all it was a 3 ½ hour ride.
When we returned to Jason’s Java the dad asked if we wouldn’t mind going up a few blocks to his home. His son loves motorcycles and knew we were riding for him that day. We all started up again and rode up to the house which was located in a culdesac. We rode round and round in a circle and revved our engines as loud as we dared. One guy did the ‘tire burnout’ in the center of the circle. The front door of the house opened and out walked the mother, pushing her son in a wheelchair. His eyes were lit up, but sadly he couldn’t even speak or do anything but make a few noises. We each introduced ourselves and hung around for a little while. Then we rode off, revving our engines as we left.
I think we made his day……he sure made all of ours.