2015 Birilliant Bargain Superbike !

Old bikes are big news: fun to ride, joyous to work on and a shrewd investment, too. That’s great for owners, but less so for buyers. Surely all the bargains have gone? Well think again. There are plenty of wallet-friendly classics out there, just waiting to find a place in your shed. Here’s our pick of the bunch for the Superbike Class !

Suzuki GSX-R750 SRAD

Suzuki’s GSX-R750 SRAD has to be modern-classic era bargain of the moment. Little more than a grand gets you a proper superbike, developed from the firm’s RGV500 GP bike that reinvigorated the GSX-R name.

It’s also a Daytona 200, BSB and WSB race winner and a bike that, despite a 200cc deficit, gave Honda’s FireBlade a seriously bloody nose. Yet SRADs remain dirt cheap. If you want a bike-buying bargain, look no further – the SRAD is that machine.

Suzuki GSX-R750 SRAD Specs

Engine : Four stroke, Inline-Four, DOHC 16-Valve, Liquid-Cooled
Bore x Stroke : 72 x 46 mm
Capacity : 749 cc
Induction : 4 x Mikuni BDSR 43mm Carbs
Max Power : 128 HP @ 12.000 RPM
Max Torque : 80.5 N.m @ 10.000 RPM
Transmission / Drive : 6-Speed / Chain

Frame : Alumunium Twin-Beam Frame
Front Suspension : 43 mm Upside Down Forks, Fully Adjustable
Rear Suspension : Rising-Rate Monoshock, Fully Adjustable
Front Brakes : 2 x 310 mm Disc, 6-Pot Calipers
Rear Brakes : Single 220 mm Disc, 2-Pot Caliper
Front Tyre : 120/70 - ZR17
Rear Tyre : 190/50 - ZR17

Wheelbase : 1.400 mm
Seat Height : 830 mm
Weight : 179 Kg
Fuel Capacity : 18 Litres


Price :


Needs Work : £750 - £1000
Rider : £1100 - £1500
Minter : £1700 - £2500

Laverda 1200 Mirage

Forget Kawasaki Z1s, Suzuki GS1100s and Honda CB900Fs. Laverda’s epic Jota is the true ’70s superbike, but because of that you need pockets deeper than its booming triple exhaust note to own one. There is another way, however...

You can have the looks of a Jota, but with the added advantage of more grunt, with the 1200 Mirage. The hairy arse is still there, and controls that act like an on-the-move gym workout, along with a fat roll of crisp tenners in your back pocket that you haven’t spent. Paint it orange and most folk will never know. Wallet-friendly exotica? This could catch on...

Laverda 1200 Mirage Specs

Engine : Four stroke, Transverse Three Cylinder, DOHC 6-Valve, Air-Cooled
Bore x Stroke : 80 x 74 mm
Capacity : 1.115 cc
Induction : 3 x 32 mm Side Throttle Dell'Orto
Max Power : 75 HP @ 7.900 RPM
Max Torque : 77.5 N.m @ 6.600 RPM
Transmission / Drive : 5-Speed / Chain

Frame : Tubular Steel Double Cradle Frame
Front Suspension : 38 mm Marzocchi Telescopic Forks
Rear Suspension : Twin Marzocchi Shock Absorber, Adjustable Preload
Front Brakes : 2 x 280 mm Disc, 2-Pot Calipers
Rear Brakes : Single 280 mm Disc, 2-Pot Calipers
Front Tyre : 4.10 - 19
Rear Tyre : 4.25 - 18

Wheelbase : 1.473 mm
Weight : 227 Kg
Fuel Capacity : 19.5 Litres


Price :


Needs Work : £3500 - £4000
Rider : £4500 - £6500
Minter : £7000 - £8000

Yamaha FZR1000

The Yamaha FZR1000 Genesis drips with Suzuka tested tech: huge Deltabox frame, forced induction, enormous front discs – the list goes on. In 1987 it was a big, big deal.

The Genesis has long been forgotten in favour of the EXUP, but this has kept values low. Today it’s a bike without the torturously focused ’90s riding position, but with a motor that will still say hello to 160mph. All for less than the price of a shagged FS1-E...

Yamaha FZR1000 Specs

Engine : Four stroke, Inline-Four, DOHC 20-Valve, Liquid-Cooled
Bore x Stroke : 75 x 56 mm
Capacity : 989 cc
Induction : 4 x Mikuni BDS37
Max Power : 135 HP @ 10.000 RPM
Max Torque : 102 N.m @ 8.500 RPM
Transmission / Drive : 5-Speed / Chain

Frame : Alumunium Deltabox Frame
Front Suspension : 41 mm Telescopic Forks, Adjustable
Rear Suspension : Monoshock, Adjustable Preload
Front Brakes : 2 x 317 mm Disc, 4-Pot Calipers
Rear Brakes : Single 264 mm Disc, 2-Pot Caliper
Front Tyre : 120/70 - VR17
Rear Tyre : 160/60 - VR18

Wheelbase : 1.470 mm
Weight : 204 Kg
Fuel Capacity : 20 Litres


Price :


Needs Work : £500 - £800
Rider : £900 - £1300
Minter : £1400 - £1800

Used Bike Guide : 2007 Yamaha FZ6 Fazer !

The original Yamaha Fazer FZS600 – made quite an impact on the budget middleweight class when it was introduced in 1998. Despite being basic in specification and not exactly blessed with too much style, the Fazer still sold well; a quick ride on one helps to understand why. Its detuned Thundercat four-cylinder engine belies its capacity and configuration, offering plenty of usable mid-range and lower RPM drive. And though its steel-framed, chassis isn’t anything to shout about, it delivers capable handling. Equipped with excellent brakes – pinched from the original YZF R1 superbike – the Fazer can be hustled along backroads more than competently.

Also happy at slower speeds, the Yamaha’s comfort and user-friendly character give it plenty of all-round potential. Revised very slightly in 2000, detailed changes to the Yamaha included a bigger fuel tank, new seat, and preload adjustment for the forks. Then in 2002 a restyled fairing and tank gave the bike much more aesthetic appeal, with new clocks also helping to boost its more modern look. In time tighter emission rulings killed it off, and in 2004 it was superseded by the naked FZ6 and half-faired Yamaha FZ6 Fazer.

Both bikes were completely new. Yamaha FZ6 featured much sportier styling, underseat pipes, an alloy frame and swingarm, and an engine based on the YZF R6 sports bike. Detuned, the fuel-injected inline four still made just under 100bhp – though its power delivery was more rev-dependant than the original motor.

Suspension was still quite basic in spec, and the brakes only had twin-piston calipers, though ABS became an option in 2006. The 2007-on restyled Yamaha FZ6 S2 models (like the one we’ve tested here) came with more mid-range power, superior monobloc four-piston calipers (also with an ABS option), and new clocks, with the majority of bikes having a black-finished engine and chassis. A cheaper, reduced power, lower-spec option, similar to the 2004 bikes was also available.

2007 Yamaha FZ6 Fazer : What's It Like to Ride ?

There are many aspects of the 2007 Yamaha FZ6 Fazer that make it appealing to a broad audience, but the character of the engine is ultimately what will define whether you like this bike or not. There’s no doubt the inline four is a little more flexible than the first incarnation fitted to the 2004 model, but even so, the YZF R6-derived motor still shares much of the temperament of the sports bike’s power unit.

Depending on the situation you find yourself in, it’s generally important to keep 2007 Yamaha FZ6 Fazer revving to produce adequate power, or at least be in a gear to enable those revs to be accessed quickly. It’s all a question of the level of urgency to gain ormaintain speed. I found myself liking these manners on occasion, and being irritated by them on just as many others.

If the roads were clear and it was easier to predict speed requirements, then I enjoyed keeping the engine singing and sampling its impressive power. Doing that gives the 2007 Yamaha FZ6 Fazer an exciting and involving feel that makes rides more memorable and rewarding. Once you’ve appreciated that a) keeping the engine spinning is important for best results and, more to the point b) if you can get into the mood for that style of riding, then the FZ6 Fazer is likely to be more of a hit with you. It’s quite a thrilling bike when things are just right.

Lower levels of satisfaction come along when circumstances differ. On a busier and less familiar route along which your speed often needs to change, then the constant requirement to keep the engine in its sweet spot can become a bit of a pain. It simply doesn’t have sufficient torque to get you up to speed via a simple yank on the throttle alone.

The necessity to hunt for revs becomes even more irritating if you’re loaded up 2007 Yamaha FZ6 Fazer with a pillion or some luggage. Staying in a lower gear to enable the slightly buzzy engine to provide the necessary acceleration gets a little tiring. It’s not helped by the gearbox being a bit on the notchy side either. And while I’m having a gripe, the fuelling isn’t perfect from a closed throttle; combined with the switch-like nature of the grabby clutch, town riding requires a delicate touch at times.

If you think of the Yamaha FZ6 Fazer more as a budget, or beginner’s sports bike then you stand a much greater chance of getting along with it. But I can’t help thinking that if the engine was a little bit more flexible (ironically, a feature the very first model of the Fazer was so well-liked for), then the bike would be appropriate for a lot more riders. If it was, it would certainly match the versatility of the rest of the bike, which makes it fit for the majority of purposes.

The all-rounder qualities are headed by the bike’s chassis; light and easy, the Yamaha FZ6 Fazer can be mastered by all sorts of riders, no matter what type of route is being travelled. The upright riding position and the leverage of the handlebars give it an agile and lively feel, and its overall balance provides plenty of poise from less than walking pace all the way up to its maximum.

You can feel the suspension is of a more basic, budget specification when it’s under more extreme pressures of very bumpy roads or high speed, but it’s only a slight harshness and choppiness that’s apparent, rather than anything more serious that threatens to reduce your control. To be honest, the Yamaha FZ6 Fazer’s handling ability is good enough to venture on to a track. And I’m sure that there you’d continue to be impressed by its light, flickable nature and superb brakes. On the road, the brakes have plenty of power and a lovely feel that allows even sudden stopping to be done with full confidence – they are one of the Yamaha’s most impressive features.

So too is its comfort. Sitting relaxed on the plush, stepped seat, and having the wind diverted nicely by the handlebar fairing is a good sign of an ability to cover plenty of ground without any sort of physical compromise. Footrests are at a comfortable height for both rider and pillion too. Two-up tours of Europe are well within the remit of this bike – engine power delivery not withstanding. A selection of sensible equipment like a centre stand, grab rails, hugger and decent instruments that include a clock and fuel gauge underline the Yamaha FZ6 Fazer’s useful design.

Together with its very attractive appearance it’s tempting to give the bike a maximum score. But with an engine that will polarise opinion so much, that’s not possible. Only after sampling the manners of the motor will you be in with a chance of knowing whether you’re likely to take or leave this 2007 Yamaha FZ6 Fazer.

How to Spot The Best 2007 Yamaha FZ6 Fazer

The 2007 Yamaha FZ6 Fazer (Code : S2) has been on the market for over eight years now. It’s been owned by a huge variety of riders. Many younger riders buy them as a first bike, though they’re also popular with more experienced types. Annual mileages vary enormously. Several early bikes have done over 20,000-30,000 miles, and it’s important to check the valve clearances have been done on machines with over 24,000 miles on the clock – though strangely the check is actually scheduled at 26,000 miles.

Looked after, the Yamaha will look and run well for 50,000 miles or more. However it must be cared for well to give reliable service. Attention from owners differs greatly, though there are plenty if giveaways to indicate this. Check the overall condition of the bike. The Yamaha FZ6 Fazer’s finish isn’t too robust and provides good evidence of the sort of life it’s led.

If it’s thoroughly clean, even in more inaccessible areas, it’s a good sign the owner has been conscientious. Badly corroded parts show neglect and as there are enough bikes to choose from, either move on or bargain hard. Newer riders may well have had the odd fall or topple from the Yamaha FZ6 Fazer. Check for light crash damage to bar ends and engine covers. More serious damage to lock stops or frame spars points to more serious impacts and the cost of repair needs to be considered more carefully.

Home servicing is common as the bike isn’t too hard to work on. But check receipts for what’s claimed to have been done. Ideally a full service history, done by a reputable dealer can be provided. Yamaha FZ6 Fazers aren’t usually modified too much. Again, the sort of mods will reflect on the owner. Chain oilers, taller screens, and crash protectors emphasise more sensible types. Loud pipes, garish paint schemes or go-faster stickers point to something different.

Inspect the bike you’re interested in well enough and you’ll land yourself a useful and dependable machine.

2007 Yamaha FZ6 Fazer Specs and Price

Engine : Four stroke, Inline-Four, DOHC 16-Valve, Liquid-Cooled
Capacity : 600 cc
Bore x Stroke : 65.5 x 44.5 mm
Compression Ratio : 12.2 : 1
Induction : Fuel Injection, With 36 mm Funnel Diameter
Max Power : 96 HP @ 12.000 RPM
Max Torque : 63 N.m @ 10.000 RPM
Transmission / Drive : 6-Speed / Chain

Frame : Die-Cast Alumunium Beam Frame
Front Suspension : 43 mm Telescopic Forks, No Adjustable
Rear Suspension : Rising-Rate Monoshock, Adjustable Preload
Front Brakes : 2 x 298 mm Disc, 4-Pot Calipers, ABS Optional
Rear Brakes : Single 245 mm Disc, 2-Pot Caliper, ABS Optional
Front Tyre : 120/70 - 17
Rear Tyre : 180/55 - 17

Wheelbase : 1.440 mm
Seat Height : 795 mm
Wet Weight : 191 Kg (ABS Version)
Fuel Capacity : 19 Litres


Price : £2000 - £4500*


*Prices are for early models sold privately in average condition, to almost new, well cared-for examples available at dealers.

2015 Brilliant Bargain Middleweight Motorcycle !

Old bikes are big news: fun to ride, joyous to work on and a shrewd investment, too. That’s great for owners, but less so for buyers. Surely all the bargains have gone? Well think again. There are plenty of wallet-friendly classics out there, just waiting to find a place in your shed. Here’s our pick of the bunch for the Middleweight 400-650cc Class !

Honda VFR400R (NC30)

A mini RC30 in every way, the Honda VFR400R NC30 is exotic and timeless. No 600 comes even close to the NC’s build quality or componentry: single-sided swingarm, gear-driven camshaft, titanium conrods, aluminium beam frame, twin rads...

The sound and ride are pure HRC, and because the Honda VFR4000R NC30 is a miniature VFR750R RC30, it has more kudos than its successor, the RVF400. The death of the two-stroke has driven 250 race-rep prices mad. NSR250 MC28s are fetching £6000-plus now so the technically more complex 400s should be worth more – the NC30 in particular. But they're not. Buy one now, While you can...

Honda VFR400R (NC30) Specs

Engine : Four stroke, 90º V-Four, DOHC 16-Valve, Liquid-Cooled, Gear-Driven Camshaft
Bore x Stroke : 55 x 42 mm
Capacity : 399 cc
Induction : 4 x Keihin CVK32
Max Power : 59 HP @ 12.500 RPM
Max Torque : 40 N.m @ 10.000 RPM
Transmission / Drive : 6-Speed / Chain

Frame : Alumunium Beam Frame
Front Suspension : 41 mm Telescopic Forks
Rear Suspension : Single-Sided Swingarm, Monoshock
Front Brakes : 2 x 296 mm Disc, 4-Pot Calipers
Rear Brakes : Single 220 mm Disc, 2-Pot Caliper
Front Tyre : 120/60 - 17
Rear Tyre : 150/60 - 18

Wheelbase : 1.345 mm
Weight : 164 Kg
Fuel Capacity : 15 Litres

Price :


Needs Work : £1100 - £1400
Rider : £1500 - £2500
Minter : £2600 - £5500

Kawasaki Z650

We had to be revived with smelling salts when we investigated what original Z1s and Z1000s are making these days, but there is another way – the Kawasaki Z650.

In one respect the Kawasaki 650 is actually superior to its bigger brethren. Unlike the 900 and thou the 650 actually handles with aplomb and, with less weight to haul to a stop, it’s a better braker too. If you can live without the kudos of a pukka Z1 your wallet will thank you for it, as the gulf between values of big-to-mid-sized Zeds are huge. Mint Z1s can make near 20 grand now, whereas the tidiest 650 will rush you less than a quarter of that. A tidy runner, half that. Need we say more?

Kawasaki Z650 Specs

Engine : Four stroke, Inline-Four, DOHC 8-Valve, Air-Cooled
Bore x Stroke : 62 x 54 mm
Capacity : 652 cc
Induction : 4 x Mikuni 28mm
Max Power : 64 HP @ 8.500 RPM
Max Torque : 57 N.m @ 7.000 RPM
Transmission / Drive : 5-Speed / Chain

Frame : Tubular Steel Double Cradle Frame
Front Suspension : Telehydraulic Forks
Rear Suspension : Twin Shock Absorber
Front Brakes : Single 245 mm Disc, 1-Pot Calipers
Rear Brakes : 180 mm Drum Brake
Front Tyre : 3.25 - 19
Rear Tyre : 4.00 - 18

Wheelbase : 1.420 mm
Weight : 211 Kg
Fuel Capacity : 16 Litres

Price :


Needs Work : £1000 - £1600
Rider : £1800 - £2900
Minter : £3000 - £4000

Kawasaki ZX-6R

Honda’s CBR600F was always a hard act to follow, but in the mid-’90s Kawasaki edged ahead in the eyes of many with the brilliant ZX-6R. Sportier than the CBR, but still practical enough to be a road bike first and a weekend track missile second, the Kawasaki ZX-6R finally got the sort of chassis and styling the firm’s epic 599cc motor had been crying out for.

Build quality is second-rate in places, so 20 years on you’ll want to hunt one down that’s been through the hands of a cherisher – and they’re out there. We’ve seen several mint 1995 and ’96 models for less than a grand. Cheap as chips!

1995-1996 Kawasaki ZX-6R Specs

Engine : Four stroke, Inline-Four, DOHC 16-Valve, Liquid-Cooled
Bore x Stroke : 64 x 46.6 mm
Capacity : 598 cc
Induction : 4 x Keihin CVKD36
Max Power : 105 HP @ 12.500 RPM
Max Torque : 63.7 N.m @ 10.000 RPM
Transmission / Drive : 6-Speed / Chain

Frame : Alumunium Beam Twinspar Frame
Front Suspension : 41 mm Showa Telescopic Forks
Rear Suspension : Showa Monoshock
Front Brakes : 2 x 270 mm Disc, 4-Pot Calipers
Rear Brakes : Single 230 mm Disc, 1-Pot Caliper
Front Tyre : 120/60 - 17
Rear Tyre : 160/60 - 17

Wheelbase : 1.400 mm
Weight : 209 Kg
Fuel Capacity : 18.2 Litres

Price :


Needs Work : £500 - £800
Rider : £900 - £1200
Minter : £1300 - £1600

2015 Brilliant Bargain Two-Stroke Motorcycle !

Old bikes are big news: fun to ride, joyous to work on and a shrewd investment, too. That’s great for owners, but less so for buyers. Surely all the bargains have gone? Well think again. There are plenty of wallet-friendly classics out there, just waiting to find a place in your shed. Here’s our pick of the bunch for the Two-Stroke 250cc Class !

Suzuki TS250

1970s trail bikes are brilliant: stylish, easy to ride and maintain, yet very affordable. There are many to choose from, too – both two and four-stroke – but we favour Suzuki’s TS250. Launched in 1969, the TS got really good by the mid-’70s, with a high-level pipe for extra ground clearance and the choice of a high or wheel-level front mudguard, before the updated Hustler model of ’77 and the final – and excellent – ER from 1980.

The air-cooled TSs pre-date the tall MX-inspired trailies that became the norm from the mid-’80s, so they’re good for short and tall riders alike. A tidy TS will draw a crowd and raise a smile every time – and one can be in your shed for under a grand. Try that with a Honda XL250 Motosport...

Suzuki TS250 Specs

Engine : Air-Cooled, Piston-Ported, Two-stroke, Single Cylinder
Displacement : 246 cc
Max Power : 23 HP @ 6.000 RPM
Weight : 128 Kg
Top Speed : 78 mph


Price :

Needs Work : £700 - £1100
Rider : £1200 - £1800
Minter : £1900 - £2200

Aprilia RS250

The Aprilia RS250 is blessed with Italian good looks (well, the MK1 is, anyway), is powered by a tweaked RGV250 VJ22 motor, and comes already in full-power form – unlike many Japanese imports. But best of all, these Aprilias can still be had for considerably less than the Honda equivalent.

Admittedly there are some RS250s out there with try-it-on price tags but, if you’re prepared to hunt around and barter, you can get one for £3500. On their day, they’re still good enough to flick the bird at much bigger machinery when straights are in short supply.

Aprilia RS250 Specs

Engine : Liquid-Cooled, Crankcase Reed Valve, Two-stroke, 90° V-Twin with SAEC
Displacement : 249 cc
Max Power : 70 HP @ 11.500 RPM
Weight : 141 kg
Top Speed : 125 mph


Price :

Needs Work : £1300 - £1600
Rider : £1800 - £3000
Minter : £3500 - £4000

Kawasaki KR-1 (KR-1S)

The Kawasaki KR-1S remains the fastest production 250 ever. Even so, mint KR-1s can still be had for £3000, and equally tidy KR-1Ss are out there for not much more. Compare that to the £5000-plus now commanded by Honda NSR250s.

Ok, so the handling is more angry than that of the Honda and the ride isn’t as sweet as an RGV, plus the styling isn’t as beguiling as the 3MA or 3XV Yamaha TZRs, but a KR will leave your senses fizzing. There are no frills, and nothing to shield you from the mayhem of what these Kawasakis do when they convert fuel into forward motion. But that’s what makes them so good.

Kawasaki KR-1 (KR-1S) Specs

Engine : Liquid-Cooled, Crankcase Reed Valve, Two-stroke, Parallel-Twin with SAEC
Displacement : 249 cc
Max Power : 55 HP @ 10.500 RPM
Weight : 123 kg (131 kg)
Top Speed : 131 mph (135 mph)


Price :

Needs Work : £1300 - £2000
Rider : £2500 - £3000
Minter : £3500 - £4200

2015 Brilliant Bargain Lightweight Motorcycle !

Old bikes are big news: fun to ride, joyous to work on and a shrewd investment, too. That’s great for owners, but less so for buyers. Surely all the bargains have gone? Well think again. There are plenty of wallet-friendly classics out there, just waiting to find a place in your shed. Here’s our pick of the bunch for the Lightweight Class !

Kawasaki KMX 125/200

The Yamaha DT125LC and 125R stole the limelight back in the day, but the KMX is a proper bit of kit. The single-cylinder motor is a gem, featuring Kawasaki’s Integrated Powervalve System (KIPS) for a wide spread of power, so road cruising at 70mph is possible on both models. A lot of KMXs have been through the hands of clueless owners, but you can snap one up that’s had light use only. The 125’s production run was 16 years, from ’86-’02, whereas the 200 only made it from 1988-’89.

Kawasaki KMX 125 (200) Specs

Engine : Liquid-Cooled, Reed Valve, Two-stroke, Single Cylinder with KIPS
Displacement : 124 cc (191 cc)
Max Power : 22 HP @ 9.000 RPM (30 HP @ 8.500 RPM)
Weight : 99 kg (100 kg)
Top Speed : 87 mph (89 mph)

Price :

Needs Work : £400 - £800
Rider : £900 - £1500
Minter : £1700 - £2000

Yamaha RD125/200

With RD250 and 400 prices at the salty edge of eye-popping, how can you indulge in ’70s two-stroke tomfoolery without breaking the bank? Say hello to an RD125 or 200. These twins deliver similar thrills to their better-endowed stablemates, but without rinsing your wallet in the process.

Both are as simple as sportsbikes get, and the 200 even comes with an electric starter. Later cast alloy wheel models look best. Beware, though – once you’ve ridden one, you’ll have the RD bug...

Yamaha RD125 (200) Specs

Engine : Air-Cooled, Reed Valve, Two-Stroke, Twin-Cylinder
Displacement : 124 cc (195 cc)
Max Power : 16 HP @ 8.500 RPM (20 HP @ 8.000 RPM)
Weight : 110 kg (123 kg)
Top Speed : 73 mph (87 mph)


Price :

Needs Work : £500 - £700
Rider : £750 - £1200
Minter : £1300 - £1800

Aprilia RS125

Not only is this Latin rascal the best eighth-litre sportsbike ever to roll off a production line, but the RS is also so good its modest capacity is irrelevant. Judging this single-cylinder two-stroke by the size of its piston is missing the point. Completely.

Its gorgeous aluminium beam frame and banana swingarm are better than those on most 1980s 250s. Its brakes and wheels are bigger too, and its curvaceous styling is straight out of a GP paddock. Ridden hard, an Aprilia RS125 can embarrass a RGV250 Gamma and many bigger diesels. Proper maintenance is a must if an RS is to give its best (it’s making 240bhp per litre). Go for the early models – later bikes are stifled by catalytic converters.

Aprilia RS125 Specs

Engine : Liquid-Cooled, Reed Valve, Two-stroke, Single Cylinder with RAVE
Displacement : 124,9 cc
Max Power : 34 HP @ 11.000 RPM
Weight : 115 kg
Top Speed : 100 mph


Price :

Needs Work : £600 - £1000
Rider : £1100 - £1600
Minter : £1700 - £2000

Used Bike Guide : Honda CB1000R

Thrilling to both look at and ride – that was the intention when the Italian-built Honda CB1000R was designed by senior Honda R&D man Paolo Cuccagna. Manufactured at its Atessa plant near Rome, Honda proudly championed the CB1000R’s Non-Japanese influence when it first went on sale in 2008, saying the streetbike was modelled and created by Europeans, for Europeans.

The Honda CB1000R was Honda’s answer to rising demand for naked bikes in the European market and though the Japanese wouldn’t admit it, the CB was a replacement for the Hornet 900. It differed from the Hornet by being of higher spec and delivering stronger performance.

Like the previous big-bore Hornet 900, the CB1000R features a similar frame to the smaller Hornet 600, in this case a cast-alloy mono backbone. And, as with the 900, the Honda CB1000R is powered by a CBR1000RR Fireblade engine, this time using the 998cc 2007-spec motor. Retuned for more mid-range power using different cams and pistons, its throttle bodies and inlet and exhaust ports are all smaller. The crankshaft and gearbox are also subtly different, as is the ECU. The CB1000R actually has more bottom end and mid-range power than the 2008 Fireblade sportsbike engine.

The chassis parts include fully adjustable, 2008-spec Fireblade forks reworked to suit the street-bike’s typical customers. Two models of the bike with differing specs of brakes were available. The Honda CB1000R C-ABS version featured linked anti-lock brakes, with the other variant equipped with non-ABS radial calipers. The bike has a single-sided swingarm, like the one fitted to the 2002 VFR800 V-TEC, controlled by a rising-rate monoshock.

Still on sale, the Honda has only changed in detail during its life. In 2012, thicker tapered handlebars and a prettier, redesigned LED headlight were fitted. And from 2014 all machines came with the C-ABS.

What's It Like To Ride ?

Despite its attractive Italian-influenced styling and the fact that it’s actually built near Rome, there’s still little doubt that the Honda CB1000R is a Japanese bike. Whether you think that’s a measure of praise or criticism will depend on your taste in bikes. It can take time for the CB to have any longer term effect on you, even if its excellent performance does impress you within minutes. If you’re looking for character, you might find it’s just a bit too polished, plush and refined.

From the moment you nestle into its seat, you can appreciate the streetbike’s obviously detailed and thoughtful design. Having one of those typical fatigue free, one-size-fits-all riding positions so typical of the marque, the 1000 immediately cossets you lovingly. Get under way and that impression of ease and comfort continues. The excellent behaviour of the suspension, engine and brakes is quickly apparent and better still is the overall poise and balance. Although the Honda CB1000R is clearly a machine with strong performance, it’s just as adept at doing feet-up U-turns in a car park as it is at tackling a twisting back-road at high speed.

There’s little need to rev the impressive motor hard to get it to deliver good, clean drive, even in the taller gears. Excellent low rpm manners allow very relaxed progress and short-shifting through the excellent gearbox brings all the speed you’ll need in the vast majority of circumstances. It’s an appreciably more flexible engine than the Fireblade’s. With a smooth and predictable increase in power available throughout the rev range, the Honda CB1000R’s engine is very practical and usable. Exploring unknown routes or coping with situations needing constant changes in speed is a simple and straightforward task.

Revving the motor harder brings very impressive results too. With a quoted 123bhp on tap, covering ground quickly isn’t much of a task for the Honda CB1000R, as you can imagine. Even when you’re using the engine harder, it still retains its good manners and composure with no troughs or peaks in the power delivery to present complications. This is a very strong but friendly powerplant with plenty of smoothness and sophistication.

The feeling of security, regardless of how much or how little of the engine power you’re sampling, is enhanced by the assured and predictable nature of the chassis. It really helps to make the 1000 the easy-going and unchallenging machine that it is. It is not actually that light but at a quoted 217 kilos in wet trim, it’s still a very manageable motorcycle and with a riding position that allows easy physical control, you always feel in charge of the Honda CB1000R. Showing it who’s boss, regardless of what speed you’re riding, is rarely taxing – though of course its naked design means longer periods at sustained high speed will end up feeling strenuous in time.

I’ve ridden the Honda CB1000R in a variety of weather conditions and environments and always felt right at home on it, trusting it implicitly to deal with any demands, either anticipated or otherwise. Big players in developing this level of faith are the highly impressive CBS linked brakes. Combined with the very effective ABS arrangement it’s difficult to do anything other than stop the Honda quickly and very safely. Quite apart from having plenty of power, the distribution of the pressure to the front and rear brakes is handled very competently. You have to bungle things quite badly to get either end to trigger the ABS. Though when that does occur, the system deals with affairs very promptly, almost instantaneously allowing the wheels and tyres to rotate and grip once more.

As is the case with many specific areas of the bike, components working really well in conjunction with others helps to assist their performance even more. That’s certainly true of the suspension boosting the ability of the brakes. Both forks and rear shock have a real quality feel to their action, offering that fine balance of comfort and control that only well set-up units can. They, in turn, allow the tyres to do an even better job thanks to the wheel control keeping them mated to the road so well. It’s a chain of excellent components working in almost perfect harmony and it epitomises the Honda’s overall design.

Listing and highlighting the numerous dynamic qualities of the stylish Honda CB1000R is one thing though… singing praises for the all-important wow-factor that makes the appeal of any bike feel more complete, is trickier. Whenever I rode it, I was always impressed with the Honda – not hard, as it does so much so well – but compared to some European rivals in the naked bike class, like a Triumph Speed Triple for instance, it can feel a little less endearing. To some that won’t be an issue, but in a group where character is often regarded as more of a priority, the ‘Honda-ness’ of the CB1000R might be viewed by others as a flaw. It might be a street-fighter, but it definitely fights by the Queensberry Rules.

What to Look For

Street-fighter-styled bikes have a reputation for attracting those with hooligan tendencies. The more refined Honda is different and generally owned by more sensible riders in their 40s and 50s. Enjoying the Honda CB1000R’s usability and versatility, they tend to look after their bikes well and have them serviced by dealers. The finish is robust and bikes in poor condition are rarely seen, so if you are interested in one of those, then bargain hard with the seller.

Early Honda CB1000R models finished in green aren’t well-liked, especially by dealers. Don’t pay as much for those and check to see if the paint is original. Several ’08 and ’09 bikes were repainted in more attractive colours. They can lower their value, particularly if the quality isn’t good or if the colour isn’t matchedwell. HRC replica paint jobs are easily the most popular and add as much as £200 to the value of the bike.

With a very good reputation for reliability, you’d be unlucky to have any problems with a Honda CB1000R. Mileages are generally low, as a typical annual total is only around 3000. Even so, a well-kept and regularly serviced bike will easily do 50,000 trouble-free miles or more. Normal checks will reveal plenty about the bike. Check how keenly the bike has been cleaned. Without a fender extender or rear hugger, bikes used in poor weather can get very dirty in hard-to-access places and their cleanliness gives you a good impression of the owner.

Just as good a guide are the sort of extras fitted – chain oilers, huggers and fly-screens suggest a more sensible owner. Garish paint schemes, stickers, and loud end-cans tell a different story. Though it’s a must do anyway, make more of a point of checking these bikes for harder use and crash damage. Scuffed hero blobs and bar ends, chewed up tyres and notchy head bearings are giveaways.

With its fairly strong performance, running costs can be higher if you ride the Honda harder. But all consumables last well withmore sensible use. Up to 60mpg is possible with care. Check the service records carefully. Most bikes are dealer serviced, but as it’s easy to service at home and some owners choose this option. You need to see receipts to verify this work. Valve clearances should be done at 16,000 miles, but often don’t need adjusting.

Specs :

Engine : 998cc, Liquid Cooled, DOHC 16-Valve, Inline Four
Power : 123 HP (92kW) @10.000 RPM
Torque : 74lb-ft (100N.m)@8.000 RPM
Gearbox : 6-speed
Final Drive : Chain
Frame : Cast Alloy Backbone
Front Suspension : 43mm Inverted Telescopic forks, Fully adjustable
Rear Suspension : Rising-rate monoshock, Adjustable preload and rebound damping
Front Brakes : Twin 310mm discs, Three Piston C-ABS calipers;
Rear Brakes : 256mm disc, Twin Piston C-ABS
Front Tyres : 120/70-17
Rear Tyres : 180/55-17
Seat Height : 825 mm
Kerb Weight: 217 Kg
Fuel Capacity: 17 Litres



Values : £3500 - £8500

How to Buy A £2000 Sportsbike

The £2000 Sportsbike. It’s not a rare beast but it’s a complex sector nowadays because you’re nipped in a pincer movement by older bikes such as the Kawasaki ZXR750 rising in price as they become classics and newer bikes losing value as they head to obscurity.

Very old bikes such as ZXR750s and early Suzuki GSX-R750s,whichwere unloved and nigh-onworthless five years ago, are nowback on-trend. There are still bargains around though – just beware dealers sticking enormous, speculative price tags on machines that are just long in the tooth, billing them as “future classics”.

As ever, think of the way the market works. Obviously, the newer, flasher, fancier models cost more. But take the less glamorous options and you can clean up. So an Aprilia RSV Mille is just as Italian and even faster than a Ducati 996, but will come in at less than half the price of the equivalent Duke. Similarly, a 1999 Kawasaki ZX-9R is pretty much the match of a ’99 FireBlade, but the Honda still commands a premium. Finally consider what you need.

Starting out? Go for a 600. You’ll just get an early R6, which is proper modern sporting class. Aiming for trackday use only? Consider a newer damaged/ repairable machine and a trailer, for the same cash as a road-ready bike.

Five of the Best

1998-2001 Aprilia RSV Mille

Prior to the RSV, Aprilias were small bikes. How could they possibly take on Ducati? Like a boss, was the answer. Rotax made the RSV’s lump and it was a corker. Fast forward nearly 20 years and early RSVs are creeping back up in price, but a good one is a genuine bargain.

Spec : 998cc 60° V-twin, 165mph, 189kg, 128bhp, 79lb.ft

Expect to pay : £1995-£2500

1998-2001 Honda CBR600

By the end of the century, the CBR600F was getting beaten up on track by sportier competition. But the CBR, boosted by its frame and engine revamp, still had the package to top the class on the road. It’s still no slouch on track and has great reliability: ideal first cheap sportster.

Spec : 599cc inline four, 150mph, 170kg, 109bhp, 48lb.ft

Expect to pay : £1850-£2300

1998-2000 Suzuki GSX-R750

750s may be a dead class in terms of racing, but they still make a lot of sense. A pleasant chunk of extra grunt over a 600, yet without the crazy power of a 1000, a sorted 750 sportsbike is A Good Thing. For this cash, we’d plump for a GSX-R. The SRAD is a modern classic.

Spec : 749cc inline four, 165mph, 179kg, 135bhp, 60lb.ft

Expect to pay : £2000-£2400

1998-2000 Kawasaki ZX-9R

The earlier B-model is more of a high-speed straightline blaster, but by 1998, C-model 9Rs were catching up with Honda’s FireBlade. Huge power, sound handling and some comfort make the Ninja an excellent choice. If you can afford a post-2000 E model, so much the better.

Spec : 899cc inline four, 170mph, 183kg, 141bhp, 75lb.ft

Expect to pay : £1900-£2300

1999-2000 Yamaha YZF-R6

It appeared a year after the R1 blew away the FireBlade, but the R6 didn’t transform the 600 class in the same way. However, a decent rider will keep up with more modern kit on the road. Revvy engine can be tiresome on motorways, but the brakes and handling make up for that.

Spec : 599cc inline four, 160mph, 169kg, 120bhp, 50lb.ft

Expect to pay : £1900-£2400

Five Things to Look For

DAMAGE

Cheap sportsbikes are like pitbull terriers in rescue homes: they rarely attract the best owners. So a £2k R6 or ZX-6R is liable to have been in some inexperienced but ‘enthusiastic’ hands. Look carefully for serious stuff like cracked frames, buckled rims and bent forks. Expect scuffed plastic at this price point, but factor it into your costings.

“FUELLING UPGRADE”

Bikes this age will have been relentlessly fiddled-with, and since many are pre-fuel-injection, there can be all manner of horrors in the carburettor jetting. Carbs rarely go properly wrong, though, so if you find a poor runner, chip £300 off the price and take it to a decent dyno shop to fix.

TYRES

Good rubber makes a difference on any bike, but even more so with sportsbikes where you’ll be wanting to lean over lots, brake hard, and get on the gas with gusto. If you’re buying from a dealer, make new rubber your first point of haggling.

SUSPENSION

As with tyres, sportsbikes – by definition – need better suspension performance than tourers or commuters. Look for leaking or tired forks and shocks, and check that any adjusters are moving freely.

EXHAUSTS

Corrosion and noise junkies will usually have seen off the stock exhaust system. A good stainless replacement with a legal silencer and maybe even a removable baffle for trackdays is the gold standard. Ear-splitting bodged cans are a bad sign.

2015 Best Used Bike of The Year

The best of 2015’s pre-loved beauties. Or just pre-loved in the case of the Multistrada...

2003 Ducati Multistrada 1000

Ducati’s first Multistrada didn’t compute. We were still getting over a sports obsession, so a tall odd-looking all-rounder from a firm loved for beautiful race-reps left us cold. But biking’s changed. Now road-biased crossovers are the rage, and the Multi makes sense: you get traditional Ducati engineering (steel trellis, single-sider, soulful V-twin) with road manners, usable grunt and reliability. They start at just £2k. From 2005 you get better mirrors, sidestand and seat, and optional touring screens.

Price : £1900

2005 Harley-Davidson Sportster 1200

Sportsters have been the best-selling cruiser for yonks, so ample used choice makes almost five grand for a basic decade-old cruiser seem salty. But H-D depreciation is so s-l-o-w and they’re a super-safe buy – especially as traditional pared-down bikes are in trend and Harleys are hipper than ever. It’s particularly true of the Sportster with its iconic silhouette, satisfying authenticity and surprising usability. Get the reliability of a 2005-on model and go 1200, not 883. Big is best, right?

Price : £4800

2013 Yamaha MT-09

There’s no better indicator of popularity than simple sales figures and in 2014 – its first full year on sale – the Yamaha MT-09 was Europe’s third best-selling big motorcycle. Not bad for a fresh model, but entirely understandable when you sample its engaging, instant, flexible 847cc triple, slender build and capacity-defying agility. MT-09s are keenly-priced new, so that means secondhand steals. 18-month-old bikes with insignificant miles start at £5000.

Price : £5000

2013 Honda NC700X

A two-year-old NC700X with full history costs around £2900. That’s a whopping 55% saving after just 24 months. It will have been used. A lot – superb efficiency and the ability to store a helmet in the dummy tank means popularity with commuters and dispatchers. But miles aren’t a worry. Quality is high, and the twin is half a Jazz car unit, low stressed, and runs and runs. In fact, go for one that’s done 30,000 miles – that way the pricey 24k service will have been someone else’s expense.

Price : £2900

2015 Honda VFR1200F

Launched mere moments after Kawasaki’s gizmo-laden 1400GTR in 2010, the VFR1200’s lack of electronic widgets meant it was dismissed by fickle journalists. However, the silky-fast Honda makes up for absent toys with something far more desirable – and that’s classy engineering with a sublime finish. The 1237cc V4 whirrs sweetly on bimbles yet has soaring top-end thrills. Sweet handling and plush suspension deliver a blend of comfort and control, and the bar-seat-peg triangle is cock-on.

Then there’s the detail – supple handlebar grips, pin mirrors, robust switchgear. With the kind of quality responsible for Honda’s reputation (not many bike’s have a standard three-year warranty), the VFR doesn’t need to hide behind a veneer of trinkets. And yet despite being the only genuine, big-bore, contemporary sports tourer, used 1200s are stupidcheap. List price is £13k, but used 15-plate bikes are nine grand (with two years warranty left). Four-year-old with accessories? £6k. Ridiculous.

Price : £9000

Used Bike Guide : Suzuki GSX-R600 K2

Don’t just think of Suzuki’s GSX-R600 as a single-minded, uncompromising sportsbike only suitable for riders in a hurry. The original 1997 model might have fit that bill, but since then it’s become more refined and usable. It’s even quite comfortable...

Following on from the successful launch of the GP racer-inspired GSX-R750WT in 1996, the first GSX-R600 arrived in dealer showrooms the following year.

Clothed in almost identical bodywork, the smaller carbed machine weighed 174kg, with its engine producing a maximum of 106bhp. That may have been impressive enough, but the peaky motor needed to be revved very hard to get it to produce anywhere near that; later, updated versions made 110bhp.

The bike was given a thorough makeover in 2001, with the 163kg machine featuring fuel-injection for the first time, while mid-range power was significantly improved, making the bike more rideable. Bar colour changes, the 600 then stayed pretty much the same until the 2004 season when another all-new version arrived. Bodywork was more sharply styled, a retuned engine made 120bhp and with a completely new chassis, including upside-down forks and radial calipers, cornering performance was boosted appreciably. Updates continued with an all-new bike arriving in 2006, with its even more tractable engine now making 125bhp.

The trend to improve the flexibility of the in-line four was repeated once more in 2008, with the freshly-styled GSX-R featuring a three-position power switch, adjustable footrests, electronic steering damper and slipper clutch. The final incarnation of the bike to date appeared in 2011.

Again the usability of the engine was boosted, though peak power stayed at 125bhp. Big piston forks improved handling, with braking getting a similar boost thanks to the fitment of one-piece monobloc calipers. Since then, the Suzuki has only changed its colour.

What's It Like To Ride

Context is an important word to consider when riding a 2002 GSX-R600. The machine being over 13 years old is something to particularly bear in mind. Do that and your expectations will be met by most aspects of the Suzuki’s performance, and happily exceeded by several others.

The engine and, more importantly the way it delivers its power, will easily be the most influential factor when it comes to making a decision on the suitability of the 600. There’s no doubt that back in 2002 it was fair to describe the in-line four-cylinder motor as flexible. Bottom end and mid-range power were useful enough not to need to reach for the gearlever too often – unless you were in a real rush. These days, the story isn’t quite the same. Advances in technology have ensured the latest spec 600s produce surprisingly good levels of drive at all rpm. This GSX-R isn’t quite that versatile.

To be fair to it though, as long as you’re not too lazy with your efforts and are willing to choose roughly the right gear, then pulling power at lower revs is acceptable. Just don’t expect a surge from as low as 3000rpm in fourth for example.

What perhaps emphasises the obligation to keep things more on the boil is the strength of the acceleration higher up the rev range. Get more towards 8-9000rpm and the serious pick up in pace is such that relatively speaking at least, the drive below it seems quite weak. It’s not. It just feels that way. Similarly, once you get to 10,000rpm and above, then the mid-range you’ve just considered healthy, will seem less so. The more revs you give this engine, the stronger it is.

Now whether this level of involvement is something you’ll feel happy with will be up to you. I didn’t find it too taxing, and as I’m normally more critical of engine character like this, I was surprised by my tolerance. I guess that’s because there were some compensations to this ‘shortcoming’. Firstly it makes the engine more involving and exciting to use, and when you do that and increase the pace of your riding, the benefits offered by the rest of the bike can be appreciated.

There’s no doubt, even though the Suzuki can’t boast the high specification components of the latest machines on the market, it’s still what I’d describe as a fine handling bike. Still light by current standards, the 600 also has manageable dimensions; it might well have a sporty riding position, but it’s relaxed enough to be reasonably comfortable. Unless you’re especially lanky, longer nonstop trips of around a couple of hours are not going to pose a serious problem. The same roomy nature provided by the sensible position of the seat and bars isn’t quite matched by the height of the footrests, but there’s still enough leverage to dominate the bike and flick it around with authority.

That’s something that’s easy to do, and it doesn’t take long to begin marvelling at the way you can devour corners. Direction changing needs little effort, and the quality of the brakes and suspension is such that choosing, altering, and holding lines is almost instinctive. With its lovely steering, the Suzuki is a pleasure to ride on more interesting back roads. The quality of its handling is definitely more modern than its 2002 vintage might have you assume.

Overall, the 600 is still a rewarding machine to ride. It looks stylish even if things like conventional fork and brake caliper design do ultimately date it a little. The best thing about it though is the fact that its capability will only set you back around just one quarter of the price of a new 600 sportsbike. Pick a good one like the one we tried, and you’ll be laughing all the way to the bank – especially if your financial base is at the end of a long and nicely twisting road.

What to Look For

Though there’s still a quite decent choice of early fuel-injected GSX-R600s on the market, you may have to travel to improve your chances of finding the best one. They’re strong and reliable bikes, however there is an important proviso to this being the case – they have to have been looked after. The required amount of TLC to keep them running sweetly isn’t anywhere near the level of something more exotic, but regular servicing and a good clean and polish when needed are important to ensure a long and happy life.

Bikes on the market fall into two distinct groups – those that have been tinkered with, and those that haven’t. Going for the latter types is the best advice. Machines in near standard trimwith evidence of being cared for inside and out, are easy to spot. The finish of the Suzuki is fairly good but you’ll quickly recognise any examples that have been neglected.

Look under the bike around the rear suspension linkages to see if the effects of a bucket and sponge are evident, and do the same with the front of the engine. If there’s heavy corrosion then you might want to reconsider buying, or at least haggling.

Proof of harder riding or less conscientious ownership will also be clear when you inspect the condition of the tyres and transmission more closely. Head bearing notchiness is normally a sign of stunt riding, though it can also come from doing many miles on the motorway.

Suzuki’s smallest GSX-R doesn’t have to be ridden flat out to be appreciated. As a summer hack, or something a bit more long-term, it can be a great value machine if you’re after something a little more involving...

Finish

Though generally good enough to withstand all weathers, some components like fasteners and brackets can corrode easily if the bike isn’t cleaned regularly. Riding in winter will require hosing the bike down after every ride. The condition of the GSX-R is a great guide to how often it’s been used, As well as an accurate indication of the care it’s received.

Fuelling

The GSX-R’s fuelling is pretty good, but power, fuel consumption and throttle response can be improved by fitting a Power Commander or remapping the ECU. Certainly the case if you fit an aftermarket end can.

Steering Damper

The standard fitment steering damper is unadjustable. However you can drain its oil and replace with different viscosity to alter its stiffness. Remove the blanking plug, pump out the old oil. Then introduce the new stuff by extending the empty damper with the blanking hole submerged in the new oil.

Touring

A taller screen is a quick and very effective way of improving long distance comfort.

Gearing

A cheap and effective way of making the 600’s engine feel a little livelier, and generally improve its overall throttle response, is to fit a one-tooth smaller front sprocket. Lowering the gearing in this way is effective and very cheap. Doing it yourself would cost a tenner. A dealer would ask £30-40. Speedo accuracy will be altered a little.

Engine

Higher mileage GSX-Rs shouldn’t be sniffed at. Earlier bikes are 15 years old now and have bound to have clocked up over 25,000-40,000 miles. However, as the Suzuki’s in-line four motor is a tough one, this isn’t an issue. Proof of servicing is still important to see though.

Suspension

One of the best points of the bike. But after 10 years of action both the forks and shock will benefit from a service and new damping oil. MCT Suspension can do the job – budget from £150 for the shock and from £200 for the forks.

Brakes

Pretty good, but there’s no doubt a caliper service, fitting braided lines and fresh pads could make a significant difference to their power and feel.

Prices

You can get hold of early 2001 models for less than £2000, but be warned – if you miss any serious faults with these, pricey repairs can be uneconomic. Take care, and you’ll find a good one – there’s a fair few still out there.