Showing posts with label biker. Show all posts
Showing posts with label biker. Show all posts

How to Raise a Fallen Motorcycle

Once you’ve determined you’re all right at the Emergency Situations, you need to turn your attention to your fallen bike. If you’re lucky, it will be safe to ride. But be careful, because incorrectly raising even a small bike can injure your back. You’ve just survived a wipeout : wouldn’t it be embarrassing to injure yourself when you pick up your bike ?




If possible, find someone to help you lift the bike. If you have to lift it by yourself, there are procedures to help prevent you from injuring your back.



When picking up your bike, use leverage to avoid straining your back. If the bike has case guards (metal tubes mounted around the engine to protect the engine cases in a crash), grab the handlebars and roll the bike toward you on the case guards, using the bike’s momentum to get it upright. Bend your knees and use your legs, not your back, to lift the machine upright.

If the bike doesn’t have case guards, grasp the lower side of the handlebar (the side under the bike), turn the front wheel toward you, grasp some solid part of the frame, and work your knee under the seat. Then, use your legs to lift the bike. You might want to extend your side stand, in case you get the bike upright and it falls over in the opposite direction.

Don’t smoke anywhere near the fallen bike, since gas will most likely have dripped out. There may also be battery acid that has dripped out. This can burn holes in your riding gear and even your skin, as well as corrode metal parts on your bike. You’ll want to check the level of the fluid in your battery after a fall.



Once you’ve gotten the bike upright, check for other damage, too. Brake, clutch, and shift levers can get bent or broken in a fall. Riding a bike with a broken clutch or brake lever is difficult and dangerous. You may be in a situation where you have to ride away from your crash site with a broken or bent lever, but replace it as soon as possible.

Also check your wheels and tires after a crash. Make certain that a fender or chain guard isn’t rubbing on your tire. Make certain that your handlebars are firmly attached to your fork. If your handlebars break loose, you’re going to crash again. In the majority of all emergency situations, the only thing that will be hurt is your pride. Swallow it and count your blessings.

Once you have calmed down, reconstruct the events leading up to your crash. Chances are, in retrospect, you will remember ways you could have avoided the accident entirely. Remember these things the next time you ride, and you will greatly decrease your odds of ever crashing again.

5 Things You Must Bring On A Motorcycle Trip !

Ever since I started riding motorcycles, I’ve felt a powerful desire to explore new places on a bike. As soon as I was old enough to get my motorcycle endorsement, I began taking serious motorcycle tours.

I enjoy all aspects of riding, from commuting to work to trail riding, but I enjoy touring on a bike most of all. I find nothing more thrilling than cresting a hill and seeing a new expanse of world open up before me. Whether I’m exploring the Sand Hill region of Nebraska, the High Desert in Southern California, the lush Ozark Mountains of Arkansas, or the wheat fields of Minnesota, I never get bored when I’m traveling on a bike.


Motorcycle Trip


No matter what I tell you, you will probably overestimate the amount of clothing and gear you’ll need when you take your first motorcycle trip. But here are my 5 suggestions for all you need for a safe, comfortable ride.


The Clothes Make the Motorcyclist





On my first extended trip, which I took about 15 years ago, I brought a couple of different jackets (for riding in a variety of weather conditions), along with five or six complete changes of clothing, including some dressy clothes in case I wanted to go out to eat or on a date.

Now I bring a couple of pairs of jeans, a couple of turtlenecks, a couple of sweat shirts, and a couple of T-shirts. I may bring three T-shirts if the weather is hot, or if I plan to be gone a week or more. And I bring pretty much every pair of underwear and socks I own. If I go out for a nice dinner, I wear my cleanest pair of jeans and the turtleneck with the fewest holes in it.

When packing for a motorcycle trip, pack light. A lighter load will tax your motorcycle less and not have such a pronounced effect on your bike’s handling. Leave a little extra space for any souvenirs you might pick up.

Your best bet is to travel light on a bike. Only bring clothing you’ll wear. And you’ll always seem to wear less than you bring. As you become a more experienced motorcycle traveler, you’ll find that you bring less clothing on each successive trip.



Tools You’ll Use





Although I pack less clothes for each successive trip, I find that my list of must-bring gear grows each year. Every time I’ve needed an item I didn’t have, I’ve included that item on following trips.

I always bring a small selection of extra tools, even when I’m on a new bike. The toolkits that come with most bikes will do in a pinch, but I always like to have an extra set of combination spanner wrenches, a couple of pliers (needle-nose pliers and channel-lock pliers), a ratchet, and a small selection of sockets. I also include a cigarette lighter, a small selection of nuts and bolts (including some for connecting my battery cables to my battery), some electrical connectors, a roll of wire, and a couple of rolls of tape (friction and duct tape).


Safety First: First Aid




I also carry a first-aid kit with me. I make certain that kit includes :

- A selection of bandages, including gauze bandages

- Adhesive tape

- An antibiotic of some sort

- Something for bee stings


This is a list of the absolute minimum amount of items a first-aid kit should include. If you can pack a more complete kit, you should do so, even if you need to leave something else behind to make room for it.



For the Scenic Routes : Photographic Equipment





I’m a photographer and always bring my camera equipment when I travel, which presents some challenges on a bike. The greatest of these challenges is weather protection. If you have watertight hard luggage, this is not as much of an issue, but riders with soft luggage will have to come up with a way to keep the rain off their camera equipment. Before a trip on which I’ll be using soft luggage, I buy a box of the most durable garbage bags I can get (the kind for bagging leaves seems to be the toughest), then double-wrap my mirrorless cameras in these bags.

When your camera is packed away in your luggage, it can take too long to reach it, so I have a fanny-pack–type camera bag. If you want to keep your camera ready to use when you ride, I highly recommend this type of bag. Another option is to use small point-and-shoot cameras when you travel. You can keep these in your vest pockets or fairing pockets, where they’ll stay dry and be ready when you need them.

If you pack your camera in your luggage, whether you have soft or hard luggage, be careful not to place it in a location where it will bounce around. Just the vibration from your bike can pound expensive cameras to pieces ; if they bounce around in your trunk or against your shock absorbers while in your saddlebags, you could end up with very expensive paperweights instead of cameras.


Always buy a large box of heavy duty garbage bags before going on a motorcycle trip. You’ll be amazed at the uses you’ll find for them. I place my clothes in them, then put the garbage bag in my saddlebags. Not only does this protect my clothes from getting wet, but it makes it easier to pack and unpack my saddlebags. I also wrap my sleeping bag in garbage bags. If you’ve ever had to spend a night in a wet sleeping bag, you’ll see the value of this practice.


Carrying your camera in a fanny pack, or carrying a point-and-shoot camera in your vest pocket, can eliminate much of this problem. If you transport your camera in your luggage, pack soft items, such as towels, clothing, or pillows, around it to absorb shocks and vibrations.


Protective Gear





I always wear a full-face helmet with a visor when traveling. Not only does a full-face helmet provide superior protection in an accident, it provides superior protection from the elements and superior comfort.

The most versatile piece of protective gear you can own is a waterproof riding suit like Alpinestars Durban Gore-Tex Jacket (mentioned in : How to Choose Your Best Extreme Riding Gear !). These suits eliminate the need for rain gear, freeing up a lot of luggage space, and they provide unmatched versatility. With all liners in place, such suits provide excellent cold-weather protection, yet with the liners removed and with all vents opened, they are the best hot-weather gear you can buy. This is especially important when traveling in high mountains, where temperatures can vary by 60 or 70 degrees in just a few miles.


Make certain that your load is secure when packing a bike for a trip. If something falls off, it could get caught in your wheel or chain, causing you to lose traction and crash.

Riding Through Special Situations : Group Riding !

Motorcyclists tend to be social creatures, and as such, tend to ride in groups. For many people, riding with friends is the most enjoyable aspect of motorcycling. Sometimes it’s fun to ride in a large group of bikes just to see the looks on people’s faces as you ride by. You may be accountants or lawyers or paramedics, but when you pull into a gas station with a large group of motorcycles, some people act like the Hell’s Angels just came to town, which in a twisted way, is kind of fun.




Going out for a ride with your friends can be a blast, but it will require extra effort on your part to do it safely. You’ll be riding with people whose riding skills vary, along with their temperaments.


Group Riding Techniques




When riding in a group, you can ride in one of three formations :


1. Staggered formation. In this formation, the motorcycles line up on both sides of the lane, with one bike on the left side, the next bike on the right side, the following bike back on the left side, and so on, with each bike maintaining a two second interval between the next bike. This formation keeps the group close together while maintaining the maximum amount of safe space around each bike.

2. Single-file formation. When you are out riding with your friends on a winding road, you will all need to use your entire lane to safely negotiate each corner. On such roads, ride in a single-file formation. Remember not to follow each other too closely, or if one person goes down, he or she might take down other riders, too.

3. Side-by-side formation. When bikes ride side-by-side, they reduce the amount of safe space between each bike, so this type of formation should be discouraged. Sometimes, an escort may require you to ride in such a formation to make the group as compact as possible, but otherwise, avoid riding two-motorcycles abreast.


Sure, They’re Your Buddies, but Can You Trust Them with Your Life ?




When riding with your friends, watch out for group mentality taking over. This is when everyone tries to out ride everyone else. Many otherwise sane riders crash when group mentality takes over.


When riding with other people, let your ability determine your speed - not theirs. I’ve got a friend, a motorcycle-safety instructor, who can ride circles around me, regardless of what kind of bike either of us is riding. When we go out, I just let him go and catch up with him later. If I try to keep up, I’ll go down. I’ve seen it happen to other riders.


When riding in a group, ride for yourself and no one else. Be aware of who you’re riding with, where they are, and how fast they’re going. Above all, don’t ride above your own ability. It’s a lot more embarrassing to go down in front of your friends than it is to arrive a few seconds later than they do.

Riding Through Special Situations : Riders on the Storm !

Riding in the rain challenges your riding skills, because on wet pavement, you have even less traction available than you normally do. Because of this, you can’t :




- Lean as hard. As I said in Steering Through Sticky Situations : Riding in the Twisties, leaning decreases the size of the contact patch of your tire, which in turn decreases your available traction.

- Stop as quickly. You need to use your brakes with caution in the rain.

- See (or be seen by other) as well. The rain is especially problematic for a motorcyclist, because you have no windshield wipers on a bike. The rain covering your visor, goggles, or windshield can only be removed by you or the wind.


Some motorcycle gloves have chamois strips on the backs of the fingers that you can use to wipe the rain from your visor. It may be a good idea to buy such a pair.


Even though it is more challenging, riding in the rain can be relatively safe, provided you use extra caution. The most important thing to do is slow down. The combination of decreased traction and decreased visibility drastically reduces your acceptable margin of error in the rain.

Smoothness is even more important on wet pavement than on dry pavement. Jerky steering or throttle input that you wouldn’t normally notice on dry pavement can cause you to lose traction and crash in the rain. You also need to take extra care to ride in the tire tracks in the rain, because the oil embedded in the center of the lane rises to the surface during a rainstorm, especially just after the rain starts. This goop always limits traction, but just after rain begins to fall, the stuff is especially slippery. Plus, you can’t see it as well, since the pavement is covered with water.

You should always wear bright, reflective clothing when riding a motorcycle, but because of the reduced visibility during a rainstorm, brightly colored rain gear is crucial. Not only is visibility decreased during a rainstorm, but when it’s raining, other drivers are even more unlikely to be watching for motorcycles than they normally are. You need to do everything you can to help other drivers see you.

You might not notice a worn tire in dry conditions, but when the road gets wet, a bald tire becomes extra deadly. Part of the reason tires have grooves cut into them is to help move water away from under the tire’s contact patch. These grooves are too shallow on worn tires to allow the water to move, causing the tire to hydroplane - that is, to float above the surface of the water. As you might guess, a tire that hydroplanes is an extremely low-traction situation. This is one of the primary reasons you should always make certain your tires are in good condition.

How to Choose Your Riding Gear : Jacket, Pants, Gloves & Boots !

Although we can do a lot to make motorcycle riding safer, the fact remains that motorcycles tend to fall over more often than cars. Think about your soft skin hitting the hard pavement, and you start to see why we wear special clothing when we ride. The following list describes the bare-minimum amount of protective gear you need to wear when riding :

- Over-the-ankle leather boots
- Leather, full-fingered gloves
- Long pants
- A riding jacket




This list defines the absolute minimal amount of clothing you can wear to ride safely, especially concerning the last two items (pants and jacket). You may have seen people riding in shorts, tennis shoes, and nothing else. My advice is to not become attached to these people, because should they survive even the most minor spill, they will not emerge from the experience as people you’d want to look at on a regular basis.


Denim actually provides a fair amount of abrasion resistance and should be considered the lowest acceptable standard for protective pants and jackets, but many riders prefer the safety (and style) of a purpose-designed riding suit. These suits, usually constructed of leather or special synthetic materials, like Kevlar and Cordura nylon, offer superior abrasion resistance and often have built-in armor to protect vital areas of a rider’s body.

Make certain that your riding gear is constructed of competition-weight leather (leather that is at least 1.3 millimeters thick) : Leave the fashionweight stuff to the supermodels and biker wannabes.


Looking Good in Leather







Competition-weight leather (leather that is at least 1.3 millimeters thick) provides the best crash protection of any material, period. That’s why it’s the material of choice for racing suits. I can guarantee you (from personal experience) that buying a new jacket is much less painful than road rash, which is what riders call the abrasions from a crash.

Not all that long ago, a motorcyclist had one choice when it came to protective gear : the traditional leather biker jacket, like Marlon Brando wore in The Wild One. This lack of choice had its advantages: Back then, you knew who rode a bike and who didn’t.

The variety of styles and colors now available for leather riding gear probably has a lot to do with the increasing popularity of leather in the fashion world. No longer are motorcyclists forced to choose between Marlon Brando’s biker jacket or nothing at all. Today’s jackets and complete riding suits are available in as many styles and colors as are motorcycles themselves. And traditional black leather riding gear is now available in shapes and styles to complement every body type.


Synthetic Riding Suits : Ties Optional







While leather is still the optimum material for crash protection, an increasing number of riders choose synthetic riding suits. The advantages of leather are most apparent at extremely high speeds (which is why racers choose leather), but at speeds under triple-digit velocities, synthetic suits provide all the protection you are likely to need.

These suits have certain advantages over leather. Most of them are machine washable, unlike leather, which must be sent to a cleaner. And many of them are waterproof or water-resistant, eliminating the need for special rain gear. Plus, these synthetic suits can easily be worn over regular clothing, a tremendous advantage for people who use their motorcycles to commute to work.

Most synthetic suits are constructed with removable liners, allowing the rider to use them over a broad range of weather conditions. In hot weather, riders can wear light clothing beneath their suits, and as the temperatures drop, riders can put in the liners and wear extra layers of clothing.


Gloves : How Much Blood Can You Lose Through the Palm of Your Hand ?








Many riders - even those mentioned earlier, who wear nothing but a pair of shorts and some sandals - wear a pair of gloves when they are riding, if for no other reason than for comfort.

Always wear a sturdy pair of leather gloves, preferably a pair with gauntlets that extend over your wrists. A good pair of gloves designed specifically for motorcycle use will have extra leather on the palms, knuckles, and fingers. This provides additional protection against abrasion in case of an accident.

Riders who like to consider themselves tough often wear fingerless gloves. While these will provide some palm protection in the event of a crash, they really offer very little hand protection. Plus, while you are riding, the wind stretches out the finger openings, and bugs can get blown in. Getting stung by a bee on the palm of your hand can make your ride home a painful and dangerous experience. Full-fingered leather gloves prevent this. In fact, bees are one major reason to wear protective gear. They are a major part of the riding experience; sooner or later, you will get stung. Wearing gloves is one of the most effective ways you can avoid bee stings. I especially like gloves with large gauntlets that go well past the sleeve opening on my jacket; this keeps the little buggers from flying up my jacket sleeve and stinging my arm.


Fancy Footwear







Even choosing footwear for riding requires you to think. You need to wear a pair of over-the-ankle leather boots to protect your ankles from being burned by the exhaust pipes and from stones and other debris. You also need to take other factors into account when selecting a pair of boots.

On a motorcycle, your feet are an important part of your motorcycle’s chassis : They are what hold up the motorcycle when you are at rest. In effect, when you aren’t moving, the soles of your shoes are like an extra set of tires. Because of this, you’ll want to wear a pair of boots with grippy soles. While fashionable cowboy boots provide adequate ankle protection, their leather soles are far too slippery for them to be safe riding shoes. If you wear cowboy boots, make certain they are work-style cowboy boots with grippy rubber soles. That holds true for any style of boot you choose.

I prefer a pull-on boot over a lace-up boot, and not just because they take less time to put on. I worry about laces coming loose and getting caught in moving parts. Motorcyclists seem to develop unnatural attachments to their boots, perhaps because they are such an integral part of riding. I have a couple of pairs of riding boots that I’ve elevated to the status of pets.

My favorite boots are a pair of Durango Men's Work boots I’ve had since few years ago. These are the big, up-to-the-knee black leather boots that scare people when you walk into the room wearing them. I’ve ridden through thousands of miles of rain and snow in them, I’ve even crashed in them, and they still have the original pair of soles.

Steering Through Sticky Situations : Riding in the Twisties !

While motorcycles are more maneuverable than cars, they can’t go around corners as quickly. It’s a simple matter of traction - four big tires grip the road better than two small ones.




But motorcycles can corner as quickly as you need them to if you ride them correctly.



Traction : A Sticky Matter




The reason four car tires grip the road better than two small tires is because when you have larger tires, and more of them, more rubber touches the road.


Motorcycle tires are designed to operate at a certain temperature; they need to heat up a bit before they provide proper traction. Professional racers keep their tires in warming machines prior to going out on the track, but even then, they wait until they have heated up their tires before they get on the throttle. You probably won’t require racing levels of adhesion from your tires, but applying too much throttle in a curve before your tires are warm is a quick way to crash.


A variety of factors contribute to your bike’s traction. The material your tire is made of plays a role. Softer, stickier rubber grips better than harder rubber. Tire temperature affects traction, too, since the colder the tire, the harder the rubber. A tire that has been heated up through use has more gripping power than a cold tire. The shape and depth of your tread contribute to traction. The surface of the road also plays a role. When cornering, the contact patch of your tire is critical to traction. The contact patch is the part of the tire that actually touches the road.

The relatively small amount of rubber in the contact patch is the main reason motorcycle tires can’t corner as well as cars. Plus, unlike cars, motorcycles lean when they turn. As your motorcycle leans, the contact patch of its tires decreases, meaning that you have less traction available in a turn.

To further complicate matters, when you accelerate, decelerate, or brake, you upset the chassis of your motorcycle, causing it to move around. This causes the amount of pressure on your tires to vary, which in turn causes the size of your contact patch to vary.


Gravity Is Your Friend




I’ve made taking a curve on a motorcycle sound like going on a ride at a carnival, and there are similarities, but on a bike, you’re in control. By practicing proper cornering techniques, you can actually make all this commotion work for you instead of against you.

Get your braking done before you turn. Apply the brakes when the motorcycle is upright, before you lean over to turn. If you brake when you’re leaning over, you’re much more likely to skid than you are if you brake when the motorcycle is upright. Remember, when you’re leaning over, you have less traction available.

Because of that lack of traction, you must use the throttle smoothly in a corner. Maintaining a steady engine speed keeps your bike settled in a curve, while jerky use of the throttle upsets your bike. The smoother you are with your throttle, the more control you have over your bike.


Smooth throttle control is one of the primary reasons for choosing a smaller, less powerful motorcycle for your first bike. The more power available when you twist the throttle, the harder it will be for you to develop smooth throttle control. Bikes that have abrupt throttle response, a characteristic of bikes with narrow power bands, are more difficult to control, while bikes with a broader power band deliver smoother, more controllable power.


Don’t accelerate or shift during a corner, since this will upset your chassis. Wait until you’ve finished the turn and your bike is once again upright to accelerate. As you develop your technique and become more proficient at taking curves, you will be able to apply power slightly earlier as you exit a corner. When you do this, you make the motorcycle’s dynamics work for you, because when you accelerate, you place more weight on the rear of the motorcycle, thus increasing your traction. As you become more familiar with your bike’s reactions to throttle input, you can use that increased traction as you exit a corner.


Dangerous Debris




You always need to scan the surface of the road for debris, like leaves, sand, fluids, and gravel buildup, but the situation in which these conditions will most often lead to a crash is when you encounter them in a curve. These materials tend to accumulate on the outside edge of a curve, so pay close attention to that part of the road when scanning a corner.


Approach areas where shade covers the road with extra caution, especially in the morning, when shaded areas can be slippery from dew or frost. You may not be able to see debris like sand or oil in a shaded area. When you are unsure of the condition of the road, slow down.


If there is debris on a curve, slow down to give yourself time to maneuver around the debris. If you are unable to avoid the debris, don’t panic and hit the brakes, since that will make you more likely to lose traction and crash than if you maintain a steady speed through the corner. If you’ve slowed down to a safe speed before entering the corner, you should be all right. If you are going too fast and need to slow down in a corner, stand the bike up for a brief moment, brake, then immediately lean back into the curve. If you do this for more than a split second, you will run off the road, which sort of defeats your purpose.


Don’t Panic




If you find yourself going into a curve too fast on dry pavement, don’t panic. Just lean harder into the curve. The more you lean, the sharper you turn. You need to trust the capability of your tires. Although motorcycles have less traction than cars, they have more traction than you might imagine. Just watch a Grand Prix racer go through a curve leaned over so far that it looks like he’s riding sideways. That should give you an idea of just how much traction a motorcycle can have.

Leaning harder actually slows you down. By leaning harder, you can scrub off excess speed with your tires. The most important thing is to keep a cool head. Unless you are going at a ridiculous speed, if you don’t panic, you should be able to make just about any corner.

Your safest bet is to make certain you’re not going too fast when you enter the corner in the first place. If you’re in doubt, slow down even more. You can get in a lot less trouble by going too slow through a corner than you can by going too fast. If you’re riding within your abilities, you should be able to stop a bike at any time, as well as maneuver around any obstacle, whether you are going straight or around a corner.


Cornering Lines




The path you take through a corner plays an important role in both safety and speed (the safest line through a curve is also the fastest). By selecting the right route, you increase your visibility and make yourself more obvious to oncoming traffic. The most important thing is to stay in your lane. One of the leading causes of fatalities among people who treat public highways like racetracks—hotshots who ride at unsafe speeds on twisting public roads - is straying over the center line and getting hit by oncoming traffic.

When going around a corner, treat your lane like it’s the only part of the road that exists. The oncoming lane might as well be a cliff or a solid wall of rock, because under no circumstance can you ride there when going around a curve.

When approaching a corner, move to the outside of the lane before entering the turn. This lets you see farther around the corner, and it also makes you visible to oncoming traffic earlier. When you enter the corner, turn hard, moving away from oncoming traffic as you negotiate the curve. Racers take this line through a curve because it is the fastest way to do so, but you do it on the street because it affords you the best visibility of oncoming traffic and any hazards that might be on the road ahead.

How to Choose Your Riding Gear : Helmets !

Topping your list of essential items should be your helmet. The issue of helmet use causes more debate than any other issue in motorcycling, which is insane : It’s like arguing for or against smallpox vaccinations during the nineteenth century.


Choosing the Right Helmet


Make no mistake about it: Not wearing a helmet is stupid. According to a long-term study conducted by Professor Harry Hurt for the University of Southern California’s Head Protection Research Laboratory, you’re five times more likely to suffer a serious head injury if you have an accident while not wearing a helmet than you are if you crash while wearing one. Every study ever conducted backs up Hurt’s findings.


Given the overwhelming evidence supporting the effectiveness of helmets, you’d think everyone wears one, but you’d be wrong. Stand on any street corner in a state without helmet laws, and you’ll see as many bare heads as you will see helmeted heads. People go to extreme lengths to justify their choice to not wear a helmet, but none of their justifications hold up in the face of all the available research. The arguments that helmets break necks, block vision, impair hearing, and cause overheating have been proven myths by every study ever conducted.

I believe most people who don’t wear helmets make their decision based on peer pressure. Otherwise reasonable, intelligent adults seem more afraid of facing the ridicule of their comrades than they are of living out the rest of their lives as produce. I actually had a man at the annual motorcycle rally in Sturgis tell me he always wore a helmet but wasn’t wearing one during the rally because his friends weren’t wearing theirs. I was a rebel, I told him, and I wore mine anyway.

I was once in his position. I rode for over a decade without a helmet, mainly because when I was young, I hung out with hardcore Harley bikers, and they would have thought I was some kind of wimp had I worn a helmet.

When I was 25, I took a job working as an orderly in a rehabilitation hospital, in the head-and-spine-injury unit. One patient I worked with was a victim of a motorcycle crash. He didn’t break a single bone in his accident, and had he been wearing a helmet, he would have walked away with nothing but his pride injured. But he wasn’t wearing one, and he hit his head on a rock.

While his body was perfectly healthy, the patient couldn’t remember where he was from one minute to the next. One of my jobs was to lead him to the cafeteria every day, because he forgot its location from one meal to the next. That spring, my wife and I both bought motorcycle helmets, and I haven’t ridden without one since.

Besides protecting your head, a good-fitting helmet actually makes riding more comfortable. Helmets reduce road noise, keep the wind blast out of your face, and keep bugs and other debris out of your eyes.


How Helmets Are Made



Helmets help keep the contents of your head on the inside rather than the outside by using four basic components in their construction:

- The outer shell. The outside of a helmet, usually constructed of fiberglass or injection-molded plastic, disperses energy from an impact across a broad area of the helmet before that energy reaches your head.

- The impact-absorbing lining. This area inside the outer shell, usually made of a dense layer of expanded polystyrene, absorbs most of the shock caused by an impact.

- The comfort padding. This innermost layer of soft foam and cloth conforms to your head and is primarily responsible for how comfortable the helmet is.

- The retention system. This consists of the strap connected to the bottom of the helmet that goes under your chin and holds the helmet on.

Helmets come in a variety of styles, from small, bowl-shaped half-helmets that protect your brain stem and not much else, to sleek fully enclosed helmets that protect everything above your neck. In between are the three-quarter, or open-face helmets, which cover most of your head but leave your face unprotected. These give better protection than half helmets, but should your face contact the pavement at speed, an open-face helmet will provide you with a one-way ticket on the ugly train. Neither half helmets nor open-face helmets offer the comfort full-face helmets provide by shielding the wearer from the elements.

Whichever type of helmet you choose, the important thing is to choose a helmet. It is the single most crucial piece of motorcycle gear.


Choosing the Right Helmet




Helmets come in a variety of styles and prices. You can get a full-face helmet for under $100, while high-end helmets can run over $500, or even more than you thought for brand new "hi-tech" helmet.

Why do some helmets cost more than others ? There are a variety of reasons. Paint schemes add to the price of a helmet; expect to pay more for a helmet with fancy graphics than for a solid-color helmet. (If the paint scheme replicates the helmet of a top racer, expect to pay more yet.) Some expensive helmets are more comfortable than cheaper helmets, while others are not.

Some helmets cost more because they use more expensive material in their outer shells. This may contribute to comfort by making the helmet lighter, but it doesn’t make the helmet any safer.


Safety First



All helmets have to meet minimum safety standards set by the Department of Transportation (DOT). Two other organizations, the American National Standards Institute (ANSI) and the Snell Memorial Foundation, also certify helmets. A Snell certification is something I look for on a helmet. Snell won’t certify a half or open-face helmet, as DOT will, and it also has more exacting standards for the retention system than DOT.

If you choose a half helmet, be certain you are getting one approved by DOT. Lately, unscrupulous dealers have been placing DOT stickers (stickers applied to the helmet listing the helmet as DOT approved) on unsafe novelty helmets. Genuine DOT-approved helmets also have a label permanently attached to the inside of the helmet displaying DOT information, like the date of manufacture. Make sure you’re getting the real thing.


Getting a Good Fit



When you get used to wearing a helmet, you will not feel comfortable riding without one. Of course, that assumes that you’ve picked a helmet that fits you well. A helmet that is too loose might flop around while you’re riding, obstructing your vision, and a helmet that is too tight will live up to the worst predictions of the anti-helmet crowd.

If all heads were the same shape, choosing a helmet would be simple: You’d just match your helmet size to your hat size. Unfortunately, helmets have to conform to your entire head rather than just a ring around your forehead.


Because of the difficulty involved in selecting a properly fitting helmet, I strongly advise you to purchase your first one from a store where you can try on different models and sizes. While you can often save money by purchasing accessories through online shop, you won’t be saving any money if you can’t wear the helmet you order from a online shop ads because it doesn’t fit.


A helmet should feel fairly snug on your head to prevent it from sliding around and possibly obscuring your vision or falling off in an accident. It may feel too tight when you first put it on. When in place, a properly fitting helmet should not slide around on your head. At the same time, you need to watch for pressure points - places where the helmet pushes uncomfortably against your head.

When you try on a helmet, wear it around the store for a bit, and when you take it off, note any soreness or red spots. Wearing a helmet that exerts pressure on your head can turn into a brutal form of torture after an extended period; improperly fitted helmets have permanently turned many riders against helmet use. If the helmet you are trying on touches pressure points, try on a larger size or a different brand or model.

Steering Through Sticky Situations : Splitting Lanes !

In some states, it is legal for a motorcycle to ride between lanes of traffic. This is known as splitting lanes. Doing this when traffic is moving at normal speed is, of course, insane - a form of suicide. When traffic is moving normally, remain in your normal lane of traffic.




Lane splitting is not a task for a beginning rider. But for an experienced motorcyclist, splitting lanes when traffic is moving very slowly or is stopped can be as safe or safer than just sitting there, if for no other reason than it gets you out of traffic more quickly and reduces the amount of time you’re exposed to danger.

Some general rules help make lane splitting safer :


- Only ride about 10 or 15 miles per hour faster than traffic is moving. If traffic is moving at 15 mph, then ride no faster than 25 or 30 mph between lanes. If traffic is stopped, keep your speed under 15 mph. If you ride any faster, you won’t have time to react if someone pulls out in front of you.


- If traffic slows, don’t immediately hop between lanes and start lane splitting. Traffic may be slowing for just a moment and will speed up again. Make certain that traffic is slowing or stopping before lane splitting.


- Watch for other motorcyclists who might be lane splitting before pulling between the lanes. If traffic is stopping, the odds are some other motorcyclist has the same idea that you do. Focus primarily on what’s in front of you, but always be aware of what’s behind you.


- Watch for people changing lanes. If you see an open spot in traffic, you can almost count on someone crossing from another lane to take that spot. It’s best to try to keep a car on either side of you, which will block other vehicles from crossing your lane.


- If freeway traffic is stopped, or moving very slowly, it’s best to move over to the fastest (farthest left) lane before lane splitting. This decreases your odds of encountering merging traffic or drivers making sudden lane changes.


- When traffic stops, watch for people opening their car doors. It happens more often than you might think.

Steering Through Sticky Situations : Freeway Riding !

Although it might not seem likely, limited-access multilane freeways are statistically much safer than city streets and highways with intersections. There are two reasons for this :

1. Traffic moves in only one direction on freeways.

2. Freeways remove your number-one hazard : vehicles in oncoming lanes turning left in front of you.


Freeway Riding Tips


But riding on a freeway presents a new set of challenges. Traffic moves faster on freeways, meaning that things happen faster. You have to look even farther ahead on a freeway to give yourself more time to react to an emergency. The faster traffic moves, the farther ahead you need to look.


On a freeway, you have to be careful not to ride too fast. Motorcycles can cut through freeway traffic more quickly than cars, making it easier to speed on a bike. But riding much faster than traffic puts you at risk, because if you’re riding too fast, you won’t be able to react if a car moves into your lane. And even though you don’t have intersections on a freeway, you have on ramps and off ramps, both of which create challenges for a motorcyclist.

When you ride as far away from on and off ramps as possible, this places you in what is usually the fastest lane of traffic. This can be the safest lane to ride in, since you only have to worry about traffic moving on one side of your motorcycle. But it can also be a more dangerous lane, if traffic is moving so fast that you don’t have enough time to react if someone moves into your lane. Like everything else, the key here is awareness of your surroundings. Take into account such factors as the amount of traffic and how fast traffic is moving when selecting the safest lane.


On ramps are especially tricky on a bike. These often consist of tight turns, forcing you to lean hard to turn your motorcycle. This in itself wouldn’t be that problematic, but on ramps usually have extra-slippery surfaces, forcing you to negotiate the ramp more slowly than you would in a car. The cars, of course, won’t slow down for you, and will tailgate you or even try to pass you.

Having to negotiate the curve on an on ramp is the first challenge; the second challenge is to adjust your speed once you have negotiated the curve so that you can enter traffic safely. This is where a motorcycle’s capability to accelerate quickly comes into play.

As you round the curve of an on ramp, monitor the traffic in the lane you will merge in and locate a safe space to enter that lane. Once you have finished negotiating the curve and the motorcycle is upright, accelerate toward the safe spot you’ve identified, adjusting your speed so that you can safely merge with traffic.

When passing an on ramp where other traffic is merging onto the freeway, move over to a lane as far away from the on ramp as possible. Drivers merging into your lane may not see your motorcycle and may mistake the space you’re occupying as a free spot to enter traffic. And other drivers in your lane may be watching the merging traffic and not see you. If they move over to let the merging traffic enter, they may hit you.

This is also a problem at off ramps. If you are driving in the lane closest to the off ramp, you risk getting cut off by a driver who doesn’t see you and thinks he or she has a clear shot at the off ramp. Slow down as you approach an off ramp. As with an on ramp, your safest location is as far away from the ramp as possible.


Lane Positioning



You can do a lot to increase your safety on crowded multilane roads by always being conscious of your lane positioning. Always think of where your bike is in relation to the other vehicles on the road. Try not to ride in people’s blind spots, and try not to ride beside vehicles. If you position yourself so that there are no people driving along side you, no one can make a sudden lane change that will cause him or her to hit your motorcycle.

It’s especially important to keep a safe distance between your motorcycle and trucks. Remember, the larger the vehicle, the larger its blind spot. Sport utility vehicles are especially bad. If you find yourself beside any vehicle, especially a truck, speed up if you have room, until you are well in front of the vehicle. If you don’t have room to speed up, you are probably following the vehicle in front of you too closely. If that is the case, you should slow down just a bit, until the vehicle in the lane beside you is clearly in your field of vision, then wait until there is adequate room ahead of you to pass.



Changing Lanes




Because traffic moves so quickly on a freeway, changing lanes requires extra caution on your part, especially on freeways with more than two lanes of traffic. On such multiple-lane freeways, not only do you need to check to make certain the lane is clear before you enter it, but you need to check to see if someone from another lane is moving into the free spot you have identified.

The speed of traffic also makes the vehicles behind you more of a threat when changing lanes on a freeway. You always need to let the vehicles behind you know what you intend to do. Once you have made certain that a lane is clear, slow down and use your turning signal early. Do everything possible to communicate your intentions to other drivers. Watch to make certain the car behind you is slowing down.


Getting cut off by the vehicle behind you while you change lanes on a freeway illustrates the importance of avoiding tailgaters. When other vehicles follow you too closely, carefully get out of their way and let them pass. Remember to signal early and make definite moves so that the driver behind you is aware of what you are doing.


And remember not to trust that the other driver sees you, just because he or she slows down. Even if the other driver sees you slow down, he or she might not see your turning signal, since motorcycle turning signals aren’t very bright and can be hard for other drivers to see, especially in bright sunlight. Before you change lanes, make certain the driver behind you isn’t planning to change lanes, too.

When you change lanes, don’t do so in other drivers’ blind spots. This is another situation where the speed of your motorcycle comes in handy. You can use that speed to accelerate out of other drivers’ blind spots, moving into a position where they can see you.

Always make sure you’re riding in the correct gear for a given speed. To accelerate quickly, you need to keep your revs in the powerband. Remember, your motorcycle was designed to operate most efficiently at certain RPMs; when you ride with your tachometer in the most efficient rev zone, you can instantly accelerate if you need to.


Rain Grooves



Some roads have grooves cut into their surface to facilitate the removal of water in a rainstorm. These rain grooves are especially common on freeways. They can cause your bike to feel unstable—a disconcerting experience, even for expert motorcyclists. But don’t worry; even though your bike may feel like it is moving all over the place, it is a relatively harmless situation. That is, unless you panic.


Rain grooves are channels cut into a road’s surface to help water run off the road in a rainstorm. These can make your bike feel squirrelly when you ride over them, but if you relax and don’t fight it, you’ll be fine.


When you hit rain grooves, the best thing to do is relax your grip on the bars and just ride it out. If you tense up and try to fight it, your bike will only move around more.

Steering Through Sticky Situations : Intersection Encounters !

The problem with discussing specific situations is that every situation differs. For every bit of advice I provide in this article, I can think of possible situations where that advice doesn’t apply.


Riding Through Intersection


I'm going to provide you with generally accepted procedures for dealing with certain situations, but when you’re by yourself out on the road, you’re going to have to make your own decisions based on your own observations in a given situation. Keep in mind the principles in this chapter as general templates, but in the end, rely on the information you gather through your own diligent observations to ultimately guide your actions.


Intersection Encounters



The most dangerous situation you’ll encounter on a bike is a driver turning left in front of you, and most often that happens in some sort of intersection, making intersections the most dangerous places to ride. You can do much to minimize that danger by following certain procedures when approaching and passing through an intersection. When you ride through any intersection - that is, any area where traffic can possibly cross your lane of traffic, always consider the following :

- Slow down. This puts you in control of the situation. It gives you more time to scan the intersection for potential dangers. The earlier you can detect a dangerous situation, the quicker you can react to avoid it. Slowing by just 10 miles per hour reduces your necessary stopping distance by almost half.

- Cover your front brake when riding through an intersection. This reduces your reaction time.

- Position your bike away from other cars. This gives you room to maneuver out of the way if an errant car jockey fails to see you and moves toward you.

- Watch the front tires of other vehicles, but it’s doubly important at an intersection. An oncoming vehicle with its tires turned toward your lane can pull in front of you nearly half a second quicker than can a vehicle with its wheels pointing straight ahead. In this situation, half a second is literally worth a lifetime.

- Make absolutely certain an intersection is clear of other traffic before you proceed. Watch for drivers stopped in other lanes waiting to turn—they may not see you and turn in front of you. Slow down enough to allow yourself room to stop.

Memorize the above rules, internalize them, and make them part of your riding techniques. By doing this, you’ll significantly reduce your chances of getting in an accident.


Types of Intersections



When riding, consider any area where something might cross your path an intersection. This includes the usual places, like crossings and where two roads meet, but it includes a lot of places you might not consider to be intersections.

For example, turnouts are intersections. Turnouts are often located at scenic points, and people pulling into and out of them tend to pay more attention to the scenery than to traffic. This applies to any spot where people congregate alongside a road, like a beach, a bridge people fish off of, or a park-and-ride parking lot (parking lots along roads where commuters leave their cars and get on buses). Always slow down when passing such a place, and move away from the side of the road the turnout is located on, giving yourself more room to maneuver.

The most dangerous intersections are the intricate ones, where several roads converge at once. Traffic doesn’t follow usual patterns at such intersections, and vehicles enter the road at unexpected angles. Often there will be frontage roads (roads running parallel to main roads) merging at such intersections, too, further confusing everybody. When riding through these intersections, slow down even more than you normally do, because you have more activity to monitor.


Moving Through Intersections



When passing through an intersection while you’re following a vehicle that blocks your view, like a bus, watch for left-turning vehicles that are unable to see you behind the bus. Again, leave plenty of space between you and the vehicle in front of you so that you have room to get out of the way. And position yourself in the part of the lane that allows you to see and be seen.

In some ways, alleys are similar to intersections, because you have to watch for traffic crossing your path in an alley. Alleys are filled with blind driveways, and people often back their cars out without looking. Even a diligent driver who looks before backing up might not be able to see you because of some obstruction, like a fence or a trash dumpster. And kids and animals like to hang out in alleys, too. Slow down when you ride through an alley, and watch for kids, dogs, cats, and cars.

When you are following large vehicles in traffic, you may not be able to decide where to position your bike. If you can see oncoming vehicles clearly, it’s best to ride on the far-right side of the lane, positioning yourself as far away as possible from a left-turning driver. But if you’re following a bus or a truck, you may be better off riding in the far left part of the lane, where they can best see you, and where you can scan for possible left-turning drivers.


Stopping at an Intersection



When approaching an intersection where you need to stop, pay extra attention to the vehicles behind you. Be especially careful when stopping on a yellow light, in case the driver behind you thinks yellow means put the accelerator to the floor and drive like crazy.

Because of the danger of drivers rear-ending you at intersections, you need to scan for a possible escape route whenever you approach an intersection. Always position yourself toward one edge of the lane or the other to provide the quickest escape route, should you need one. Choose the side of the lane that gives you the most free space to maneuver out of the way, which will usually be the side of the lane farthest away from oncoming traffic.

When you stop behind a vehicle, don’t pull up close behind it. If you do so, you’ll block yourself in. You won’t have room to move out of the way if the vehicle in front backs up, and you won’t have room to get around the vehicle in front if the vehicle behind you doesn’t stop. Always leave enough room between you and the vehicle in front of you so that you can move around it in an emergency situation.

Leaving yourself enough room to maneuver is important any time you have to stop, whether or not you’re at an intersection. Even on the freeway, expect trouble from behind, and monitor the traffic behind you. If you see a vehicle behind you that’s not stopping, look for a clear spot and rapidly accelerate toward it.

To do this, your bike will have to be ready to go. When you sit at an intersection, or anytime you have to stop when there is traffic around, keep your bike in first gear, with the clutch lever pulled in. That way, if you need to get out of someone’s way in a hurry, you won’t have to waste time putting the bike in gear.

When you stop at an intersection, look for the best traction for putting your feet down. Avoid putting your feet down on any damp, shiny, or dark spot. The spot may be oil, antifreeze, or diesel, which is the most slippery fluid you’ll encounter. (Some people refer to diesel on the road as black ice.)

Also be careful not to put your feet down on any painted lines or marks in an intersection. Painted spots will be slippery, and just a small slip of your foot when you are stopping can cause you to wipe out. And remember, if you fall down because of something slippery on the road, there’s a pretty good chance that whoever is following you will also hit the slippery stuff and possibly lose traction, too.

The safest part of the lane to put your foot down in is the tire track. The slippery goop that drips off cars builds up in the center of the lane. When you put your foot down, place it at the edge of the tire track farthest away from the center of the lane.


Leaving an Intersection



When leaving an intersection, the number-one thing to remember is not to proceed until you’re absolutely certain that the path is clear. When the light turns green, wait until things settle before entering the intersection.

Realize that some people consider the first part of a red light just an extension of the yellow. I’ve almost been taken out by drivers who continue through intersections when they have a red light. The only way to protect yourself from red-light runners is to slow down when you ride through an intersection. Always make certain the path is clear before entering an intersection, even if you have the right of way.

When starting through an intersection from a standing stop, it is especially important not to trust eye contact as a means of determining if another driver has seen you. Even if another driver sees you, he or she might not register your motorcycle as traffic.


Turning in Intersections



The same rules that apply to passing through an intersection apply to turning at an intersection. Make certain that all lanes are clear before making a turn.

Often, other traffic will block your view at an intersection, especially if a turning lane is present. If you find your view blocked, slowly ease ahead until you can see past the offending vehicle. Remember, when you do this, your tire will enter traffic before your view clears, so be extra cautious. Lean forward and stretch your neck ahead as far as is comfortable, being careful to remain stable and in control of the bike, to see around the vehicle blocking your view. This will help make certain you don’t roll your bike out in front of an oncoming vehicle when you ease ahead to clear your view.

When making a turn at an intersection, be extra careful when trucks are present. Trucks with long trailers make wide turns, and they often need more than one lane to negotiate a turn in an intersection. If you pull up beside a truck, thinking the truck is going straight, and the truck turns in your direction, you could be trapped.

You may be able to power ahead and get out of the situation, but then you run the risk of being struck by an oncoming vehicle hidden from your view by the truck. If you’re lucky, there will be a shoulder instead of a curb at the side of the road, allowing you space to get away from the trailer.

Your best course of action is to not get in such a situation in the first place. Avoid squeezing between a truck and something else at all costs, even if it means not entering a turning lane and having to use a different route.


Avoiding Dangerous Intersections



Some intersections are death traps for motorcyclists. You will encounter intersections with electromagnetic stoplight sensors (which trigger a change in the traffic light by detecting large masses of metal over them) that can’t detect an object as small as your motorcycle. At such intersections, you can find yourself faced with the choice of running a red light or waiting until a car pulls up behind you, neither of which is an acceptable option.

Other intersections may have too many obstructions—like signs, lightposts, and buildings—for you to make certain all lanes are clear before you enter them. If you know of an intersection like this, one that makes you uncomfortable, avoid it if at all possible. Even if you have to ride a few extra miles, if you can select a safer route, your chances of arriving are improved by avoiding dangerous intersections.

How do You Learn to be Smooth Riders ?

Have you watched a top rider put in a really quick lap ? It looked unhurried, cool calm and collected with everything under control. And it was under control... just. Have you watched a back marker struggling to stay with the pack ? You can see the effort that’s going in, the late mega braking, the forks diving, the abrupt corner entry and exit, the wheelies away from the slower corners. See how fast the control changes are made and how the bike is right on the edge of getting away all the time ? So how come it’s slower ? Poor bike or poor rider ? Well it may not be the most competitive bike in the race, but one thing is for sure: put a Ben Spies or a Valentino Rossi in the saddle and it would be lapping several seconds quicker.




On the street or on the track, smooth is quicker and safer. If you over-ride, trying to go faster than your abilities, you will go slower as well as being a danger to yourself and everybody else. You see it every track day, at least one guy out to prove he is the next champ and making a total hash of it.

Smoothness on the street pays off too. Smooth keeps your bike nicely balanced, always ready to accept a change of speed or direction so enlarging your buffer zone and keeping your options open....



What makes smooth?




Think of a pendulum or a child on a swing. Can you see exactly when the upswing stops or the downswing starts? Not really, because the transitions are so smooth. Yet it can be going at a good lick when it goes through the bottom of the arc. This pendulum effect is what you are aiming for each time you :

- Go on and off the brakes
- Go into and out of a turn
- Accelerate
- MOST IMPORTANT – change your mind halfway through a maneuver

It’s the last one that’s hardest to learn. Moves you planned in advance can be smoothed out with a bit of practice. Reactive moves – like having to change line mid-corner to avoid an obstruction are the difficult ones.


How do You Learn to be Smooth ?



I’m going to tell you a secret... To be slow at the ends you must be quick in the middle. If you try to smooth out the riding you are doing now, you will start braking earlier for corners, ease into and out of the turn and take your time getting going down the straight. Smooth but slow. Not the way to make quick adjustments. Learn to brake hard ! Yeah,I mean 1g+. I already told you about this in previous article.

Learn to snap in and out of corners. Pushing the bike down and heaving it out of corners in a hurry takes extra effort at speed. Learn to do this by finding the counter-steering and body steer techniques you are comfortable with that allow you to virtually throw your bike in and out of turns. Accelerating fast seems to come naturally to most bikers ! Points to watch are being in the right gear, mastering clutchless up-shifts and moving your weight forward to counter wheelies.

Does this look like the complete opposite of smooth? It will sure feel that way as you learn. But you can and will master these things. Then, you start working on smooth.


Move to Smooth Part 1



Pick a familiar corner. Use your old familiar approach speed, braking point and entry point. Smooth your braking by progressively squeezing the binders on until you are braking harder than you normally do. When you know you have overbraked, ease off the brakes to arrive at your entry point will no brake at all. Bet you found you were overbraked earlier than you expected. Surprising how much difference a bit of extra stopper makes.

Ride the corner in the old way. See how much time and distance it takes you to get into and out of the turn. How does it compare with what you can do now if you throw the machine into the curve ? Next time try the turn with your best snap in/out style. Quick, but maybe not so smooth. Now smooth out your snaps ; think of the swing and try to roll into and out of your snaps. This does not come easy. But keep at it because you are building a key skill for road and track.

Concentrate on smoothing the end of the snap first. It is important not to overshoot and wobble at the end of these moves so as to keep the bike settled and stable. Starting a snap smoothly is actually easier to master, but you can’t give it your full attention until you are 100% comfortable with ending the snap smoothly. When you have had a bit of practice, watch other good riders and ask them for tips. Styles vary, for example some riders use a lot more body steer than others. So, don’t copy what doesn’t feel right to YOU.


Move to Smooth Part 2




If you are comfortable doing each action smoothly on its own, now is the time to start on the advanced stuff. You want to bring the separate actions together so that you are trail braking as you start setting up the turn. You have probably heard about trail braking already and how it is supposed to improve your lap times, but that is not what I am talking about here. I am trying to show you the way to stop fork bobbing that happens when you let off hard braking and the forks come up only to dive back down as the centrifugal force in the turn gets added to the weight of the front of the bike. To ride smooth, you want to reduce the braking load as the lean goes on so that the fork movement doesn’t change direction. For a curve where you need to slow down significantly, the forks will be most compressed under braking, rising a little getting into the turn and more as the power is fed in from the apex. It’s the unload and load up action bobbing the front end that unsettles the bike and makes it wriggle instead of settling cleanly into the turn.

The amount of front brake you can use at moderate lean angles is surprisingly high. Racers use this to brake later, but that is not what I am trying to get across here.

Work on eliminating the fork bobbing by tailing off the brake and merging it into setting your lean. Get it right and you suddenly find things have smoothed out and are almost in slow motion. Beautiful. Using the end bit of braking to adjust your entry point and speed is a luxury you never had before.

To become an advanced motorcycle rider you need to get this right and master the tricky moves like a tight left followed immediately by an even tighter right. When you can’t set it up by adjusting your line through the left-hander enough to ease the right turn, then you have to brake in between. Pulling the bike up, braking hard and laying it down the other way, all in a matter of moments, is an art that will take time to acquire. The payoff is much more agility on the street or on the track. On the street you can react fast to new hazards, changing speed, position and line confidently so as to avoid trouble. On the track you can make a quick flowing sequence out of moves that before were bitty and disjointed. You won’t look quicker but you will be lapping faster.

Get Fitted Up Your Motorcycle !

Forget any idea of "one size fits all". Your bike has to fit you just right if you want to have precision control. To change down smoothly under braking, your front brake and clutch levers must be positioned right. For smooth starts and slick changes the clutch bite point needs to be set right. A badly set gear-shifter can make you wobble and your changes slow up or down the box. Little things do matter. Even two people the same size may need to set a bike differently to fit differences in arm, leg and trunk lengths as well as riding style and personal preference.

Fitted Up Your Motorcycle


Adjusting the controls "spot on" gives you optimum control with maximum comfort. Each control action does its own job without disturbing balance or weight distribution, in an emergency that can be the difference between staying in control and coming off.

So let’s look at how to do it.



Set that Front Brake




- We want instant braking

- Good "feel"

- Easy throttle blipping for smooth down changes


OK, in your normal ‘at speed’ body posture, reach out for the brake. It needs to be angled so that it "falls to hand". Try it eyes closed. If the lever is too high your wrist will bend up uncomfortably and it will be even worse as you lean back into your braking posture. If the lever is too low, it might feel OK in your sit up braking posture but it won’t fall naturally to hand at speed.

Once you have found the small range of rotation of the lever that feels right for just braking, work on braking and blipping the throttle at the same time. Most times you do this, you will be in sit up posture under firm braking, slowing for a curve, but just occasionally you will want to brake and downshift while maintaining your ‘at speed’ posture. (I find this happens when aborting a passing maneuver and getting ready for the next chance).

Riding with 2 fingers covering the brake is a recommended technique – but it may require a different setting.

Perfect blipping is most critical when under heavy braking because that’s when rear tire is lightly loaded you are most likely to break traction with a bad downshift, so bias your final setting to favor this situation.



Set the Clutch



Easier than setting the brake lever because your left hand only has one job. For me precision clutch control is most demanding when maneuvering at walking pace, so I want the angle set for that.

The other thing to adjust is the clutch biting point. Two things are important here: low speed maneuvering and quick downshifts at speed. To get quick shifts, I want the clutch disengaged with only a part squeeze on the lever, not have to pull it up to the grip. For maneuvering and stopstart city traffic, you want the ‘just engaging’ point of the travel at the most comfortable and controllable amount of squeeze. Bikes with a heavy clutch or a long, draggy action can be a pain! One thing is for sure, you’ll always ride better with your best compromise setting than the way it came. And if it is still a pain, maybe you should see if there are any upgrades or modifications available for your model.



Set the Rear Brake



If you thought adjusting hand controls was fiddly, you ain’t seen nothing yet!

The rear brake is the third control that needs ‘feel’ and feedback to the rider. Motorcycles vary in the pedal pressure and travel that’s needed. You only need enough pressure to squeal, not lock(!), the rear tire at 70mph. The brake may be capable of more than this but you won’t ever be able to use it, even with a failed front brake. If you have the confidence and control to rear tire squeal from 70mph down to 20mph, I congratulate you. You truly are a rear brake maestro. If not, please don’t start practising at 70 mph unless you are feeling suicidal!

Unless you are a maestro already, set your brake for maximum comfort and control when using it fairly gently for low speed work and slippery conditions.

The correct way to make adjustments may not be obvious, check out the manufacturer’s instructions in the manual. Make adjustments a little at a time. Remember that a pedal set too low could reduce ground clearance and the available lean angle. Look what other settings (peg position for example) are available on your model.



Set the Gear Shift



There is probably more variation in travel, weight, feel, crispness and adjustment in gearshifts than in any other motorcycle control. Just be glad you are not forced to use hand gear selection that was popular in the old days. Read the manual to see how to make adjustments. Aim to be able to make quick, clean shifts both up and down without repositioning your foot or straining your ankle. Be aware of possible ground clearance issues.

When you reckon you have got the right setting just do a quick check to make sure selecting first at standstill with your other foot down still feels OK. This move is different because you are unbalanced and out of the normal body position. Sports bikes can be a bit awkward and tiring to ride in the city unless you get it right.

I hope you have got your bike set up to suit you now. I promise it will make a major improvement to your comfort and control. As you get familiar with the new feel, give yourself a little time to settle in, but don’t be afraid to make further minor adjustments that get the total package working in harmony.

Setting the bike for precision control is groundwork advanced riding.

Rode to work today….Yay!

After many consecutive days of rain the weather guy said we would have one sunny day today. I thought to myself, “I am riding my motorcycle to work Friday even if it is raining because I NEED to ride”.

So I woke up this morning and it was 42 degrees out and as dark and cloudy as it gets. The weather people are always wrong lately, but I trusted them on this. I got ready for work and decided since it wasn’t supposed to rain I would just wear jeans and my regular gear. Since it was pretty cold I decided to wear my new winter riding gloves. If it was sunny in the afternoon, like they said, I had my lighter gloves for the ride home.

As I started out and went down my street I felt pretty good in the cold air. The vents were all still open in my full-face helmet, so at the first stop sign I came to I reached up and closed the one near my chin. Chinny was chilly. Then I was great all the way to work. I saw no other motorcycle riders out this morning, which is a little unusual even on the cool mornings.

All day I watched for the sun to come out as they had promised. At lunchtime I walked out to the street where my business is located and took a couple pictures of the beautiful fall colors that are starting to appear. It was kind of cold and windy outside and there were giant black clouds looming overhead.
Around 2pm the sun finally broke through, the clouds blew away, and everything looked rosy for the ride home. I enjoyed my ride and the sun, and got home safely after stopping to fill up the bike with gas. I still didn’t see any motorcycle riders even though it was sunny. Was I the only one Jonesin’ for a ride? The next week or so is supposed to be rainy and stormy again but I have some new rain pants for riding, so will probably try them out this weekend no matter what the weather does.

I just have to ride……

The Hazards of Daily Riding

I’ve been riding the motorcycle to work a lot lately because the weather has been perfect for it. My commute is not very long, only 5 miles each way. I don’t take the freeway, but usually ride various routes on back roads.

Everyone else takes the back roads also, to avoid sitting still on the freeway. We have a terrible gridlock problem around here during commute times. I usually have a pretty fluid ride going to work in the morning. Coming home in the afternoon is a different story.

Western Washington is in a state of growth and there are a lot of jobs here. This means there is a lot of road construction going on in every direction, and lots of housing subdivisions are being built. A lot of the beautiful trees here in the Northwest are being bulldozed away for houses…..it’s sad to me.

So riding a motorcycle in this area can be hazardous because of all the ‘steel plates in the road’ and ‘motorcycles use extreme caution’ signs. Flaggers stop traffic and funnel it down to one lane everywhere you go. Sometimes the road is corrugated, which is tough if you’re going faster than 10 mph.

I usually try to mentally plan my route to work when I’m on the cycle. Which hazards do I want to challenge today? Depending on which direction I think will be backed up with cars, I choose to go the route I’m in the mood for.

My favorite route goes on windy back roads for a while, then up a straight steep hill past a gun range and a mountain of landfill. Then it’s down the other side of the steep hill into a major commercial area with a giant intersection. Once I am past there it is a straight, slow road (I wish people would get out of my way!) until I turn on a side road which is a fun rollercoaster of gentle ups and downs. This road is my favorite because it is rural and cool in the morning, and there are a flock of Canadian geese (hundreds) that settle in one particular field. It is a sight to see. As I come to the end of this road it opens up into a business park with lots of companies. I go down a little ways and pull into my company.

The ride to work this way is pleasant, and only frustrating if I get stuck behind a school bus on the country roads now that school has begun again. They stop at every driveway. I will avoid those routes unless I leave early enough to miss them.

Coming home the traffic is always backed up leaving the business park, and pretty much all the way home it is gridlocked. Since my bike is air cooled, I need to keep moving. It gets pretty hot sometimes sitting in traffic that isn’t moving. No lane-splitting here.

One day I followed this van home for a few miles. The driver was an old guy talking on a cell phone, and smoking a cigarette. I watched him in his rear view mirror for a while. I thought he saw me also. All of a sudden he tosses his lit cigarette out the window right into my face. I wasn’t real close, but just enough that the air caught the butt and it shot right at me. Luckily I had a full face shield on, but I was cursing him into my enclosed orb. He was oblivious.

You always have to watch out for people on cell phones and driving badly these days. If someone pulls out in front of your motorcycle, 9 times out of 10 they are on the phone. Or if they go slow, and take their time turning a corner, it’s because of a cell phone. We have a law going into effect in January restricting cell phones while driving. We’ll see if it makes it any less hazardous for us motorcyclists who are NOT on cell phones and paying attention to our driving.

It’s always fun to get out of town, and see what challenges present themselves in other places we ride. Keep your eyes open and ride safe.

The two-fingered high five

The first time I rode out of my neighborhood I was exhilarated. I was out on the back roads and I was a new female motorcycle rider. I am always conscious of this. When you are new, every ride is glorious and leaves you wanting more.

So a motorcycle passed me and gave what appeared to be a wave. I waved back. The next biker passed and waved the same way. This time I realized it was a two-fingered wave and the fingers were pointing down. Not up like a peace sign.

It was the biker signal, the two-fingered high five, the symbol of the community of bikers, the realization that we are all of like mind. We bond because we are willing to be unprotected and travel with no hindrances, so that our senses can enjoy everything we experience as we go along.

I sent the signal back. As I rode more frequently I realized almost all bikers signal to each other - except large dudes on Harleys, who only signal to other Harleys.

I ride a 2005 Suzuki Boulevard S-40. It is a perfect size for a female’s first bike. She’s a cruiser style bike. It’s very easy to handle because it is light. There is only one cylinder, but it has a powerful 650cc engine so has lots of “get up and go”.

I got a little cocky and started signaling every biker I passed. I was one of the gang. I love the community of bikers because we all have a common passion for motorcycles and riding them. Most people you meet are very nice, friendly, and supportive of new bikers.

Then one day I signaled to a large black and white motorcycle that I saw coming towards me. It was a policeman – OOOPS! He didn’t signal back. He was on a real nice Harley.

Since then I give the two-fingered wave to anyone who gives it first. It feels good. There is a silent communication among motorcycle riders. It is like I am accepted into their club.

Today was a great day for riding in the Northwest

It isn’t often we have such a beautiful, warm, summer-like day that just begs you to ride.

I woke up this morning and knew this would be one of the last perfect days before it started raining again. I got ready for work and got the Suzuki S-40 out of the garage. It is a cruiser style bike and I think of it as my “little Harley”. I started her up and got my gear on which is a ritual for me.

On the way to work I am always thinking “what a beautiful day” because I am riding and also because I love the mornings - once I crawl out of bed. I had a fine ride to work today with less traffic than usual. So I got to work on time!

I had a date at lunchtime to go meet some old co-workers and hear about their experience last week at Sturgis. I rode over to meet them and the day was noticeably hotter by that time. I was dying to hear the stories they would have to tell, and see pictures, etc. Turns out they had few stories except that everyone had a real good time. They rode a lot around Crazy Horse Monument and Mt. Rushmore and loved the ride. One of the guys has a gorgeous Victory motorcycle which he had trouble with. The starter went out and so for 3 days he couldn’t ride, until he got it fixed. They brought me a T-shirt with Sturgis Bike Week 2007 written over a couple of skulls. I love it! Some day I will go….

I went back to work eventually and found it hard not to look outside, looking forward to my ride home. I ducked out as soon as I was able. My ride home was uneventful but nice. I love it when I don’t have to ride behind a slowpoke or a smoking diesel pick-up truck. Today I didn’t have anyone throw a lighted cigarette butt out the window, knowing I am right behind them.

Lots of riders were out today and most were giving the biker signal to each other. It was a great day to ride around Seattle.

So many roads to travel
Not enough time

Motorcycles are not built for women

There are several things to consider when you, as a female rider, are ready to buy a bike. Most motorcycle manufacturers keep the male stature in mind when they are designing their bikes. Since the female riding population is increasing rapidly, some of them are beginning to make rides that fit smaller adults as well.

  • Consider your hand size. Can you reach the turn signals with your thumb while you already have the clutch pulled in? Can you comfortably squeeze the clutch lever with your left hand with enough strength to disengage the clutch?

  • Decide what position is comfortable for your arms. Are your arms spread too wide? Are they at a height that will be uncomfortable on a long ride? Some people like the cruiser style where your arms can be anywhere from a little above your waist to shoulder height. A lot prefer the crotch-rocket style of motorcycle where you are a little crouched over as you are riding. In this case some of your weight rests on your arms as you ride.

  • Can you touch your feet flat on the ground on both sides? Many bikes are too high for a smaller person to reach the ground safely. This is one of the greatest challenges when trying out bikes. A lot of the seats are too wide, which cuts into the thighs of a smaller person. I found there were a lot with a wide gas tank that cut into my thighs when my feet were positioned on the foot pegs.

  • Another thing that can be a hurdle is the weight of any large motorcycle. It is sometimes intimidating to think that a 120 lb female can hold up a motorcycle that weighs 800 to 1000 lbs. I have seen it so I know it is possible. Sometimes we worry what we might do if it ever turns over. Even a man would have a hard time lifting that weight alone. It shouldn’t be a hurdle as long as the bike fits in all of the other ways.

I eventually found that the Suzuki Boulevard S40 was the perfect fit for me. I am 5’4” and average weight. My bike weighs around 350lbs and is actually light and very easy to handle as a beginner. I have ridden for over 2 years now and I have almost outgrown it. Everyone said it would happen! I am dreaming about a ’07 Harley Dyna Street Bob. It is about twice the weight of mine, holds twice as much gas, and has an engine more than twice the size of my 650cc.

So, as long as women keep buying and riding motorcycles the demand will dictate the market. Manufacturers are listening, because the sales are up among female riders and increasing quickly each year. Since profits talk, I am sure that the choices of motorcycles for smaller individuals will be enormous in the near future.

So many roads to travel
Not enough time

Love My Leather Jacket

As I go to the closet to retrieve my favorite leather jacket my sense of smell and pleasant emotions are awakened. It is a ritual while I am readying myself to ride.

I go pull the bike out of the garage, start it up, and come in to put on my gear. My jacket is first because I have already loaded up my saddlebags with the items I intended to take with me.

As I reach for the jacket my hand touches the soft, supple leather and instantly it takes my mind to the road. I take it off the hanger and the weight of the leather is reassuring. I know this jacket is my friend and will protect me from losing my skin if I ever hit the pavement. My senses are awakened by the smell, feel, and look of my favorite biker jacket. As I lift it up and put it on I instantly become happy. It takes me back to all the back roads I’ve covered, and the extremely hot and freezing days I’ve comfortably endured in my jacket.

It is getting a lovely dull finish now that I’ve ridden a couple of years in it. There have been many bugs removed from the front of the jacket. As I zip it up, it fits like a comfortable glove. I take my helmet out and head out to the warmed-up bike.

Now my adrenaline starts pumping because of the sound of the bike, the smell of the bike running, the urge to get going. I put my helmet on, adjust my bangs and hair that is sticking out, and buckle it up. As I hop onto the bike, I carefully put on each leather glove and zip up the corresponding sleeve of my jacket as I go.

Now I can’t hold back the desire to ride another second. I put the bike in gear and off I go……ahhhh - instant relief from all my cares.

So many roads to travel
Not enough time
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